,0 0^ ° ^^ 






<j, '•"° ,\^' 



.^•^ ''t 



.0 ■-. 






v °f 









^ ■^^^'^ .>'%.. .x^^'% ,^%. .^^■% 



"^A >*' CO- ■'^A v^'^ ..^„, '"^y. >^' 






< -r". i*^ O^ S. -T, S> °^ -i -y 





■•^^. .^^^■ 




.s^% 


. ,■5*' 


.- .^'" ^- % . 




• O '' ' " •> ^ 








<f^''l','''% 


>0^ 


. - ■ « -^^^^ ^^N 


-'-'^ 


j^Oo^ 






■^ I. 









^0 






""^^ ,^^' 








r 






"f/^ v>^ 




.<^n 



.vV ./'. 



<^^. .vX^- 






./■'^■ 



<) c. 



•^00'^ 




^J- 


•r 










/ 




,0^ 


^ 






N^"" 

,.>• 




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'at-, .aX^ 



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x^"" ''^. 






Inlernalional Copyiight, 1917 

by the 

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 



All Righli Reserved 

Reproduction Interdite 

VervieKaelligung UnlersagI 



■6 Ibi/ 



The 

American 
Paiiern 
Grader 



Jl Complete, Practical, Up-to-T)ate 
Work on the Qrading of Patterns for 

MEN'S GARMENTS 

The Use of ^lock Patterns 

Alterations and How to ^TUCake 

Them 

By 

SAMUEL TiEGAL 

li 



AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 
New York, Chicago, London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna 



<^ 



5^0 



^K 



Introduction 



DRAPER in his " Intellectual Advancement of Civil- 
ization" says : " Individual advancement is the model 
for social progress." Nowhere is the truth of this to 
be found so fully realized as in these United Stales, where in- 
dividual advancement is marked in every avenue of life. 
" Excebior " is inscribed on the banner of every man and 
woman, bome onward and forward through the rush and 
crush, through the whirlpools and fast flowing streams of life's 
kaleidoscopic changes, ever reaching higher and higher and 
becoming more and more and still more perfect in their par- 
ticular sphere and in their own individual calling. 

For twenty-five years the author has devoted his time to 
the careful study of every subject applicable to the publication of 
this work, and has arranged this volume in such a manner that 
amyone of average intelligence can master this method with 
the employment of proper care and necessary diligence. 

The student will find the system of Grading herein ex- 
pounded simple and entirely free from complication. All 
which might have a tendency to mislead the student, has 
been eliminated so that every line drawn and applied may be 
easily grasped and perfectly understood. 






©r.l.A4ri5789 



M.AR -6 1917 
V 



'i^i>^1i) 



Preface 

IN publishing the AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER, 
1 it is not the purpose of the author in any way particularly 
to advocate cutting by proportion in spite of the fact that 
he considers the knowledge of this art indispensable to him 
who proclaims himself a competent cutler and wishes to be 
considered so by his fellow workers. 

It is and always will be, the wisest and best method to 
adopt drafting to measure where this is possible. In other 
words, the cutter who has the time to devote to each indi- 
vidual and is remunerated adequately for such services should 
never cut but by special measure. For the cutter, however, 
who is engaged in wholesale tailoring work or such work 
where prices are of a nature necessitating quick results, draft- 
ing by proportion, popularly known as " The Use of Block 
Patterns," becomes a necessity. 

In order to thoroughly master the art of using block pat- 
terns, it becomes necessary first to learn how to grade, as the 
former is the result of the latter. In the lessons following this 
page, it will be found that the grade is started from a single 
pattern which is utilized for all sizes and when once made, is 
the basis for (he making of block patterns. 

In this volume, the author has aimed to put the art of 
using block patterns as plainly as possible to the student, and 
it is his firm belief that anyone who is conversant with cutting 
can easily follow the lessons given herein. 

In order to facilitate the work of the man who is com- 
pelled to employ this method of cutting, a most complete 
course of instructions in the making of alterations is added. 
These alterations have all been practically tested and are the 
result of twenty-five years of actual practice during which 
period not the least time was given lo the careful study of the 
necessities and requirements of altering garments encountered 
daily under various conditions. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

F OR 

BOYS AND YOUTHS 



COATS 



AGE 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 


WAIST 
LENGTH 


FULL 
LENGTH 


SLEEVE 


WRIST 


4 


23 


23 


26 


IIM 


18 


175^ 


8'A 


S 


23^ 


23!4 


26H 


11% 


18>^ 


18J^ 


8V 


6 


24M 


24 


2T!4 


12 


19V 


19J^ 


9 


7 


25V 


24 J^ 


2VA 


12M 


19% 


20 J^ 


9V 


8 


26 


25 


28'^ 


12% 


20K 


21 >^ 


9K 


9 


26 H 


25K 


29^8 


13 


21>^ 


22 J^ 


9X 


10 


27Ji 


26 


2W* 


13M 


21V 


235^ 


10 


U 


28V 


26M 


30H 


13% 


22rs 


24 J^ 


lOV 


12 


29 


27 


81 


14 


23 


25K 


lO'A 


13 


29M 


27 J^ 


31 H 


u'4 


23 V 


26V 


lOV 


14 


30>^ 


28 


32V 


14% 


2i'A 


27 


11 


15 


3\14 


28'A 


33 


15 


25V 


27 V 


IIV 


16 


32 


29 


33V 


15% 


26 


28 J^ 


IVA 


17 


33 


29H 


34>^ 


15% 


■26 V 


29 V 


llV 


18 


34 


80 


85 


16 


27 J^ 


30 


12 


19 


85 


31 


36 


16% 


28 X 


31 


12V 


20 


86 


32 


87 


16% 


29 


32 


12H 



TROUSERS 



AGE 


BOYS- 
VESTS 


RISE 


LENGTH 


WAIST 


SEAT 


KNEE 


4 




5V 


5'4 


23 


25V 


11 


5 




5V 


6% 


23A 


26V 


IIV 


6 




6 


7 


24 


27 


uv 


7 




6V 


7% 


24V 


27 V. 


IIV 


8 




6A 


8V 


25 


28V 


12 


9 




6V 


m 


25V 


29/8 


12V 


10 


21V 


7 


f'A 


26 


29 V 


12V 


11 


22 >i 


7V 


\m 


26V 


30H 


12V 


12 


'i2'A 


7)4 


12V 


27 


31 


13 


13 


22?^ 


7V 


13y8 


27V 


31 H 


13V 


14 


23V 


8 


14 


28 


32V 


13V 


15 


23?^ 


8V 


14V 


28V 


83 


13V 


16 


24 


854 


15K 


29 


33V 


14 


17 


24^8 


8V 


30K 


29V 


34 V 


14 V (Bottom) 


18 


24V 


\> 


31 


30 


35V 


15 


19 


25 H 


9V 


31 A 


81 


86 


15V 


20 


25 >^ 


9A 


32 


32 


87 


16 



The short measures for the table of proportions for children's clothing are as foUo-»s: 
Scye dapth, V breast ; strap, j^ breast plus v inch ; blade, y^ breast plus 14 inch. 
Make no extra additions, as all allowances have been made. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

FROM 

NORMALS TO STOUTS 



COAT 


VEST 


TROUSERS 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 


SLEEVE 


COAT 

LENGTHS 


VEST 
LENGTHS 


RISE 


WAIST 


SEAT 


a4 


30 


3« 


17>4 


30 


24 V 


9V 


2!) 


35 


33 


31 


37 


17« 


30 V 


25 >^ 


O'A 


31) 


30 


m 


82 


38 


18 


30 >^ 


25K 


9K 


31 


37 


ar 


33 V 


39 


18V 


30 *( 


25% 


10 


32 V 


38 


33 


34 '4 


40 


18^ 


31 


26 'i 


10 V 


33 '4 


39 


39 


3.>M 


41 


18V 


31J4: 


20 H 


10!^ 


34 V 


40 


40 


37 


43 


19 


31J4 


27Ji 


lOV 


3(i 


41 


41 


38 V 


4:J 


19 V 


dlH 


27 >^ 


11 


!!7V 


43 


42 


39 ."-i 


44 


VJ'/i 


33 


27% 


11 V 


3S'A 


43 


43 


,40M 


45 


19)^ 


32 V 


28 'X 


11!^ 


39 V 


44 


44 


42 


46 


19!4 


3Z}4 


28 '/i 


11 V 


41 


45 


45 


43 V 


47 


19-^2 


33 V 


28 M 


13 


43 V 


40 


46 


44 )i 


48 


19!^ 


33 


28 V 


12 V 


43'^ 


47 


47 


^oH 


49 


19^^ 


33 V 


28^ 


12-4 


44 V 


48 


48 


47 


50 


19^^ 


■S3 -A 


29 


12 V 


40 


49 


4!) 


48 V 


51 


VJ'A 


33 V 


29 >8 


13 


47V 


50 


50 


49 >4 


52 


lO'A 


34 


29 V 


13V 


48>^ 


51 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

FROM 

STOUT TO CORPULENTS 





COATS 






TROUSERS 




BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 

41 


WAIST 


HIP 


SEAT 


RISE 


38 


37 


30 


40 


40 


10 


39 


38 V 


42 


37 V 


41V 


41 


lOV 


40 


39 >^ 


43 


38'^ 


i-i'A 


42 


\0!4 


41 


40 V 


44 


39 V 


43 V 


43 


lOV 


42 


43 


45 


41 


45 


44 


11 


43 


43V 


40 


42 V 


46 V 


45 


llV 


44 


U!4 


47 


43 '4 


47 '4 


40 


U'A 


45 


45 V 


48 


44 V 


48 V 


47 


llV 


4G 


47 


49 


40 


50 


48 


12 


47 


48 V 


50 


47 V 


51 V 


49 


12 V 


48 


49>^ 


51 


4.S^ 


53/2 


50 


121^ 


49 


50 V 


53 


49 V 


53 V 


51 


12V 


50 


53 


53 


51 


55 


52 


13 


51 


53 V 


54 


53 V 


56 


53 


13',; 


53 


54 'A 


55 


r,i'4 


57 


54 


13 V 


63 


55 V 


50 


54 V 


58 


55 


13Ks 


54 


57 


57 


50 


50 


56 


13'i 



TABLE OF PKOPORTIONS FOR SHOKT MEASURES BY HEIGHT AND BREASTS 



Breast 



32 33 



3^ 



35 36 



37 



38 



39 



W 



^/ 



^Z 



^3 



^^ 



^J 



^6 



^7 



V8 



Breast 



Might 

5-^ 



16 



/6 



M. 



M_ 



f6 



/6 



/6 



J6 



/6 



J6 



/6 



16_ 



W 



^6 



W 



/^ /6 



WaiitUnqtii 






892 



S% 8% 



m 



9 



9'/s 9'4 



9% 



9'^ 



9'/^ 



9% 



/O 



ms /^^ 



/a/ii 



//93 



//^ 



m 



/2 



Ws 



/2% /2% 



ms 



/ff^A 



/6% 



ms_ 



17% 



17% 



72% 



73 



13h. 



ms 



13% 



ma 



/^ 



ms 



18h 



mz 



m/8 



79'/8 



/9% 



/9% 



20 



Scye 



/m 



20& 



strap 

(hnshoi/ldtt 



JMlMA 



mt 



T&h. 



76^ 



/m. 



M^ 



mi_ 



/6k 



76^ 



5-5 



(3% I m 



7m. 



7&7^ 



W% 



76'A 



76'/^ 



76A. 



76^ 



m 



83k 



Mt 



m 



9'A 



9% 



9^2 



Waistlayth 



9 



78 



9% 



m. 



/o 



ILAU'/^ 



7/'/2 



J^iM^ 



/7%im 



m¥ 



/2h 



76k. 



/692 76U 



J6k /6f2 



5-6 






i5U16'/s 



Ml 



72 



8% 



m2j6'^ 



8% 



8^s 



/P/8 



17^8 



im. 



ms 



/6fi 



M^rn^ 



/m 



/63a, 



5-7 



b%\s^/f- 



3% 



//9^ 



76 



/7 



5-8 



Ml 

//% 



im. 



/7'A 



5-9 



SVs 



//'/z 



Mk. 



12k 



5-10 



//% 



/63k 



12^ 



5-11 



9ls_ 



Ml 



/6'/2 



lA^ 



0-0 



Blarl^ 



9A 



Ml 



//92 



ms 



im 



/2'8 

JZ^7722j7Jt 



12% 



78 



12?^ 

18% 



ms 



13% 



131^ 



78% 



79 



mt 



133k. 



lOh 
1¥ 



10^ 



19% 



ycye 



m. 



lA 



Strap 



79'/2 



/9% 



20f, 



ZO% (heahoulder 



iM 



9 



9fs 



lOh 



7092 



9'A 



76k 



9^ 



9'/2 



U 



121^ 



77 



17bJ7'H_ 



i2%m8 



ms 



777s 



789s 



763a 76 ^A 



9h 



m^ 



16h 



76% 



/7 



/7 



/7 



ms 



9% 



mi 



m\ 



i& 



72 



mt 



77 



/7ff 



rm. 



723^ 



9 



9fs 



99f 



Ml 



72 



113^ 



/69z 



/6h 



/79s 



77-^/8 



12^ 



/792 



77fz 



M 



9'A 



im 



/2ys 



729^ 



763^ 



77 



77'/v 



12^ 
92l 



123^ 



77-^^ 



m. 



992 



12 
16^ 



12h 



ms 



7798 



/7^8 



/8 



18 



78 



9% 



9'l2 



9% 



1298 



72'/3 



12!^ 



'■h /6h 

10 \im 



/a 



77^2 



mio% 



12f8 



779s 



77 



9'A 



/2h 



/79'^ 



77'''8 



779^ 



9% 
/23^ 



773^ 



7792 



9h 



7292 



/7'/z 



12^ 



9% 



72% 



77% 



78 



9% 



/2% 



7^ 
// 



9f7 



12^ 



779i 



77 



9^18 



12h 



779¥ 



9'/2 



77'A 
9% 



12^ 



77'^ 



9^ 



77% 



77-% 



9% 



12% 



18 



78 



97s 



12?8 



789s 

m 



70% 



76% 



76% 



91z 



9% 



129^ 72% 



73 



77-^'^ 



78 



789j, 



77 



77 



77 



992 



9% 



9% 



m. 



12% 



777/8 



1898 



131s 



783/8 



78% 



72k 



9\ 



12A 



9% 



72% 
78 



13 



789'^ 



1399^13% 



7S9z 



7792 



7792 



779^, 



9% 



9% 



10 



12% 127s 



Ws 



1393 



7898 



783/s 



78% 



mt 



123k. 



77% 



9?s 



10 



13 



189t 



13'A 



/89ii 



78^ 



78 



10 



78 



78 



70f^ 



mi3% 



/3A1A 



^ 



m 



7S^/sm's 

/m/2 



769s 



9^/s 



769^769^ 

9%\m 



76'^ 



m^Mk 



7699i 



7/79z 



10 



Wmtfenyfh 



im. 



IIM. 



13 



ia% 



m. 



Scye 



13'A1392 



789ii 



78^/^ 7998 



763a 703a 



9^/¥ 



9h 



13^8 



73% 



ms 



13% 

19% 



73^/8 



12h 



79^i 



irM/n 



Strap 



20 



ZOA 



2092 ( hershoulder 



io% 



10-% 



70% 



70% 



703A 



76% WaJstUtifftb 



70 



lOls 



lOk 



mi 



20^ 



10' 



73^^. 



73% 
B2M919 79^ 



1^7 



179, 



77% 



193t 



209s 



77 



77 



9h 



10 



77 77 

10fs\l079 



13lv 



lllk 



79 



77f¥ 



779i, 



10 



ms 



13% 



787/8 



779^ 



107s 



1372 



79 



773/^ 



70fs707j^70% 



78 



Hk 

m 



7998 799^ 



7792 



203/, 



20ft 



OvenJiou/der 



73% 



79' 



779^ 



10'/^ 



73' 



7792 



70'929^s 



73M.22 



199779^8 



77% 



73% 137s 
7978 793/s 



78 



mim^ 



79 



79A 



77% 



10^2 



777s 



793/, 



78 



177^ 



ms 



77 

ms 



77^ 
7092 



77 



77 



137s7778 



79%\797s 



777s 



297^ 



72k 



lOfs 



72 



/^■^* 



7212 



7072 



ms 



79fs 



17% 
2d9s 



72^ 

70% 



779v 



20 



78 



7sm7 



27/'s 



mm 13 



779v 



779¥ 



7012 



217^ 



20 



20^^s2078 2/?7s 



77/2 



79% 



2972 



12^ 



70% 



77992 



ZO'Af 



78 



7078 



7n8 777s 



m 



7998 707^ 7/7 7s 



I2I2 



77 fs 7798 



72/2 



707^7978 , 



77% 



77% 



7078 



77% 



78 
77 



77k 
?0% 



10% 



17^ 



17% 



2O'^2O3/jf0verd,ouldn- 



779i^ 



779^^^ 



77h 



773/1^ 



20^ 



77% 



77 



777s 



777s 



20%207/8 



78 



m. 



75 



27 



/372/J% 



(htrshouUer 



77 



7J 



27 



TZ^vk 



7J7s 



/S 



2/7^ 



7Sf^ 



Scyt 



Strap 



yaistUnifflr 



Scyt 



St, 



rap 



Waist lenqtfi 



Scye 



Strap 



/7'9^ yaisllmfft h 



^cyc 



SL 



rap 



(herslioulda- 



Scye 



Strap 



27 fS <her5fiouUtr 



Waisften^ 



Scye 



Strap 



279^ Qyerihoutt/tr 

22 BUe 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Grade a Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 

Tlie principle of grading sack coats is the same in all cases, whether the coat be single or 
double breasted. The idea is to distribute the increase in the larger patterns or the decrease in 
the smaller patterns in such a way that the backpart and front part will each receive their 
respective share. The sizes (meaning the breast measurements) are increased or decreased by 
an inch for each size, which leaves the pattern to be increased or decreased J4 inch, and is dis- 
tributed in the following manner : J4 'ich at the front edge and ^ inch at the side seam, which 
makes the lA inch double or i inch. The % inch at the side seam is divided in halves, which 
gives y& inch to the side of the forepart and the other ]/» inch to the side of the backpart. 
This latter ]/& inch is also added or deducted from the width of the back, thereby increasing 
or decreasing the shoulder width. 

The scye depth is increased or decreased ]/(, inch for every size. If all men were of the 
same height and the increase or decrease were in the breast and waist measures only, the scye 
depth would increase or decrease ]/% inch for every size, but as the majority of men range in 
height from 5 feet 5 inches to 5 feet 9 inches, we must cut patterns for the majority, or as men 
are ; so beginning with a 38 breast coat for a man of normal height, and decreasing yi inch 
down to 33, the 33 pattern will give a proportionate measurement for a man 5 feet 5 inches 
in height, and increasing ^ inch up to 44 will make the 44 scye depth proportionate for a man 
3 feet 9 inches in height, thereby striking the average. 



10 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Grade from a Single Pattern 

In grading from a single pattern it is necessary to observe two rules : 

First, be sure to have tiie breast and waist lines marked on the pattern ; second, always use 

a medium size pattern, neither too large nor too small. A 38 breast is a good size, and from 

it you may first grade down to 33 and then up to 43 or 44. 

This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and graded down to 33. 

THE BACKPART. 

Copy the 38 backpart on a sheet of stiff paper, mark the breast and waist lines and pro- 
ceed as follows : 

From A to B is 34 inch for every inch the pattern is to be reduced, in this case % inch; 
square forward from B and make the distance from B to i, ^ of 33 breast. 

From I to 2 is ^ inch. 

From D to C is the same distance as from A to B. This will reduce each pattern J^ inch 
in length or you can make the length of the 33 backpart from B to C according to your judg- 
ment. 

From E to F is 34 inch for every inch reduction, and from G to H is the same. 

Place the side seam of the original 38 backpart to points H — F and mark from 3 to H 
and from H through F to J. 

From 4 to 3 is the same distance as from A to B, which is H inch ; place the top of back 
pattern to points B — 2 and trace it, and do the same from 2 to 3. 

Now draw lines from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, H to G and from J to I ; divide all spaces indicated 
into five equal parts, after which cut out the graded backpart and number each division to avoid 
mistakes. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the 38 forepart on a sheet of paper and mark the breast and waist lines. 

Ascertain the distance from O to P by sixths, i. e., the distance may be >^ of the breast 
or yi plus 34 inch, or >^ less >4 inch, in either case the shoulder point on the 33 pattern should 
be proportionately the same distance from O as the 38 pattern. 

For instance, if the distance from O to P on the 38 pattern is 3^ of 38 breast plus 34 inch, 
then the distance from O to Q should be Yb of 33 breast plus ]4 inch ; square up from Q. 

Now reduce the front edge from L to K, 34 inch for every inch, in this case 5 quarter 
inches. 

From M to N is the same as from L to K ; place the original pattern, breast line on breast 
line, the front edge to touch points N — K, and trace the edge from Y through K— N— 11 
and 13. 

From 7 to 6 is 34 inch for every inch reduction; from 9 to 8 and W to X are the same; 
place the side of the forepart to points 6 — 8 and trace the side from 6 through 8 to X; from 
X to V is the same as from C to D on backpart; 14 to 15 is the same. 

Trace the side seam and bottom of forepart with the original pattern. 

Measure from R to T 5^ inch or the same as from A to B on backpart; from 17 to 16 is 
the same as from T to star, and from 18 to 19 is the same; from T to 19 is Y& inch less than 
from 2 to 3 on the small backpart. 

Ascertain the height of neck by eighths, t. e., from R to S in this case is ]/% of 38 breast plus 
34 inch. 

Make the distance from T to U >^ of 33 breast plus 3^ inch ; square forwards from U. 

Now trace out the gorge, shoulder and armscye with the original pattern. 

Draw lines from Y to Z, T to R, 18 to 19, 7 to 6, V to W, 10 to 11 and 12 to 13, and as 
many additional lines as will ensure perfect lines on the graded patterns, and divide each line 
into five equal parts. 

The pockets are marked as follows: 

From 38 to 33 is half the distance of C to D on backpart; decrease the size of pockets on 
the 33 pattern according to your judgment, and draw lines, from 38 to 33, each side of the pocket. 

All points of division must now be numbered according to their respective sizes, and this 
part of the grade is then completed. 



/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM I. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



The grading from 38 to 33 breast being completed, we will now proceed to make the 
increase from 38 to 43 breast. 

Place the graded backpart on a paper, and mark around it ; extend all the grade lines as 
from B to A ; 2 to 5, 3 to 4, H to G, J to I and C to D. 

At B — A add the same amount from 38 to 43 as the decrease was from 38 to 33, which 
is yi inch for every size. 

At 2 — 5 adil in the same proportion, i. c, whatever the decrease was from 38 to 33, make 
the same increase from 38 to 43 breast. Increa.se at all grading points in the same way, add- 
ing at each point the same amount per size as the decrease was from ^S to 33. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark around it. 

Extend all the grading lines as from 19 to 18, 16 to 17, T to R, 23 to 22, 25 to 24, Y to 
Z, K to L, M to N, II to 10, 13 to 12, 15 to 14, V to W and 6 to 7. 

At K — L add ^ inch for every inch; at line M — N, which is the waist line, add 5-16 inch 
for every inch, which will make the sizes as follows: 

Brea.st. Waist. 

38 34^ 

39 35H 

40 37 

41 38>4 

42 39J^ 

43 40?4 

44 42 

At II — 10 and 13 — 12, add the same as at M — N. 

At all other grading points, add from the 38 to 43 breast in the same proportion as the 
reduction was from 38 to 33 ; number the various sizes and proceed to cut out the patterns. 

Beginning with the 39 breast, mark around the lower part of armscye, prick through all 
pxDints marked 39 and trace out with the next smaller pattern, which is the 38 size, 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



13 




DIAGRAM 2. 



14 AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER 



V\o\N to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 

The principle of grading the stout coats is the same as that governing the normal coat, 
except that the pattern to grade from must be of larger size. 

For instance, the stout sets are made to run in sizes from 38 to 48 breast measure. A 42 
would therefore be a good size to grade from. 

Now proceed as follows : 

Place the backpart of a 42 stout on a stiff paper and mark around it ; also mark the breast 
and waist lines. 

Measure from 17 to 17, Yz inch for every inch reduction, which in this case is y% inch, or 
the difference between 42 and 38. 

From 15 to 15 is the same, ^ inch. 

Now place the baqk pattern to points 15 — 17 and mark as from 12 through 13, 14, 15 and 
16 to 17. 

From ID to 10 is Yb inch for every mch reduction, which is Yt- 

Square out from the lower point 10 and make the distance from 10 to 11, 34 of 38 breast; 
square up from 11,^ inch. 

From 12 to 12 is the same as from 10 to 10; place the pattern to points 11 — 10 and 11 — 12 
and shape the 38 back. 

Now draw lines from 11 to 11, 12 to 12, 13 to 13 and 14 to 14. 

Divide all the points as marked into five equal parts and number them. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the forepaYt on a paper and mark around it; also mark the breast and waist lines. 

Reduce from 2y to 27, Y& '"ch for each inch ; from 29 to 29 is the same as from 27 to 27 ; 
place your pattern to points 27 — 29 and shape the side seam of the smaller size forepart. 

From 23 to 23 reduce the forepart 34 inch for every inch, and from 24 to 24 reduce the 
same. 

Now place the pattern, the front edge to touch at the inner line 23 — 24 and shape the front 
edge of the smaller coat as from 22 through 23, 24, 25 and 26. 

Ascertain the distance from 32 to 33 or the neck point of the large pattern by sixths, i. c, 
it may be Yd of the breast, or Yd pl^s 34 inch or Yd '^^s 34 inch, and whatever the distance 
is_ give the same proportion to the small coat. In other words, if the distance from 32 to 33 
is Yd of 42 breast, make the distance from 32 to 34 Yd of 38 breast and square up from 34. 

From 20 to 20 is Yd inch for each size, or the same distance as from 10 to 10 on backpart. 
Ffom 19 to 19 and 18 to 18 are the same as from 20 to 20; measure the small backpart from 11 
to \2 and make the small forepart from 20 to 18, 34 inch less. 

From 20 to 35 on large pattern is 3^ of 42 breast plus yi inch ; from 20 to 36 on small 
pattern is 3^ of 38 plus 34 inch. 

Now connect all points as shown and divide each space into five equal parts. All divisions 
must be numbered and the patterns cut out the same as explained before. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



15 




DIAGRAM 3. 



i6 AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 

Continued 

The reduction in the patterns having been made, we will now increase the sizes from 42 to 
46 inches. 

THE BACKPART. 

Place the graded back part on a sheet of paper and mark around it; also mark the breast 
and waist lines. 

Extend all the grade lines from the original grade as shown from 10 up, from 11 up, from 
12 up, from 1,3 out, from 14 out, from 15, 16 and 17 out. 

Increase the back height from the 42 grade up the same amount as the decrease was made 
from 42 down to 38, which is Yf, inch for every inch. 

Increase each size at 1 1 the same amount as the decrease was from 42. 

Increase at points 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 the same amount as the grade was decreased from 
42 to 38, which is % inch for every inch. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the graded forepart on a paper ; mark the breast and waist lines. 
Extend all the grade lines as shown and proceed as follows: 
Add at the breast point 23, J4 inch for every inch increase. 

.^dd at points 24, 25 and 26. 5-16 inch or >4 and Vi; inch for every inch. This will increase 
waist size as follows: 

Breast. Waist. 

42 42 

43 4.3'4 

44 445^ 

45 45?4 

46 47 

Make the increase at 22 the same as the decrease was below 42, and increase proportion- 
ately at all grading points the same space per size as the decrease was from 42 to 38. 

Number all spaces as before and, beginning with 43 size, trace it out with the 42 pattern and 
so on, always tracing each pattern with the next smaller size. 



.•/ M ERI C AN PATTER A' G R A DER 



17 




DIAGRAM 4. 



i8 AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Grade a Double-Breasted Sack Coat from a 
Single Pattern 

This grade is made in the same way as the single breasted grade, but will describe it so as 
to avoid referring back to the first grade. 

This pattern is for a 38 breast coat, and is graded down to 33 inches breast. 

THE BACKPART. 

Copy the backpart on a sheet of paper and proceed as follows : 

From A to A is yi inch for every inch. 

B is half scye depth of the small back. Square forward from A for the small backpart, and 
make the distance from A to E K of 33 breast. Go up from E y& inch. 

From M to M is J/^ inch for every inch reduction. I to I is the same. 

Place the side of the backpart to points M — I, with breast line on breast line; and shape the 
side of small backpart from F through G to H and from H through I and K to M. 

From F to F is the same as from A to A which is Ye inch. 

Place the top of the backpart to points A — E, and trace out from A to E and E to F. 

Draw lines from E to E, G to G, H to H and K to K. 

Divide all connecting lines into five equal parts, and mark the sizes. 
THE FOREPARTS. 

Trace the forepart on a stiff paper, mark the breast and waist lines, also the pockets and 
proceed as follows: 

From I to i reduce the forepart ^ inch for every inch. 

From 2 to 2 is the same as from i to i, and from 3 to 3 is the same. 

Place the pattern to points i — 2 and 3 and trace the front edge from Z down. 

From 6 to 6 reduce the side of forepart Yf, inch for every inch, and from 4 to 4 the same. 

Place the side of forepart to points 6 — 4, and trace the side seam of the small pattern from 7 
through 6 and 5 to 4. 

Ascertain the distance from D to J by sixths, and make the distance D to S proportionate!)- 
the same. 

For instance, if the distance from D to J is 3^ of 38 breast make the distance from D to 
S, Yb of 33 breast. Square up from S. 

From Q to O is the same distance as from A to A on backpart, which is Y(> inch for every 
inch decrease. 

From Q on small pattern to V is proportionately the same as from Q to L on the 38 pattern. 
»". e., if from Q to L is ^ of 38 breast plus ^ inch, then from Q to V on small pattern is Y& 
of 12, breast plus Ya inch. Square out from Y 

From O to O is the same as R to Q. 

From N to X is the same as O to O. 

Now place the 38 pattern to points N — O — Q and trace out the shoulder of the small pat- 
tern ; also from Q to U trace out the gorge. 

Points Y— X is where the V is cut out of the gorge. 

Make the distance fromU to Y on the small pattern the same as U to Y is on the large 
pattern. 

Now draw lines from 7 to 7, N to N, O to O, Q to Q, T to T, Y to Y, U to U and Z to Z. 

Divide all connecting points into five equal parts and number them. 

This finishes the grade. 

Now place the graded backpart on a paper and mark the centre seam. 

Prick through all points marked 37 and trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern. 

Do this to all backparts, always tracing them with the next larger pattern.. 

Now place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of artnscye. 

With an awl jirick through all points marked 37. Remove the grade and trace out with the 
38 pattern. 

Do this to all sizes, always tracing out with the next larger pattern. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



19 




DIAGRAM 5. 



20 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Grade a Frock Coat from a Single Pattern 

The principle of grading this pattern is the same as the sack coat with this exception, the 
sack coat is cut in two parts and this coat has three parts, /. e., the back, sidebody and forepart. 
The division at the back seams must therefore be in three parts instead of two, and as 3-12 
equals '/j, and the division is J4 inch for every inch, each part must have either aii increase or 
decrease of -,ij inch for every inch. 

The size of this pattern is 38 breast and is graded down to 34. 

THE BACKPART. 

PYom A to B is ^ inch for every inch. 

Square out from B and make the distance from B to i, >^ of 34 breast. 
From I to 2 is 5^ inch. 

From G to H and 29 to 30 is yk inch for every inch, which is 4-8 inch. 
Place the backpart to points H — 30 and trace from 3 to H. 
From 4 to 3 is the same as from A to B. 
Place the backpart to points B — 2 and 2 — 3 and trace out. 
From E to F is T^ inch for every inch. 
From D to C and J to I are the same. 
Place the backpart to points H — F — C — i and trace out. 
From the lower point at H to 30 is the same as G to 29. 

Draw lines connecting all grade points from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, 30 to 29, E to F, G to D and 
I to J. 

Divide all points into 4 equal parts and number them. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Reduce the sidebody from 12 to 13 ^ inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same. 
Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13 — 7 and trace out from 8 to 7, and 
from 7 through 13 and down. 

From 9 to 8 is -f"? inch for every inch. 

Place the sidebody to points 8 — E and trace out. 

Now divide all grading points into four equal parts and number them. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce from 17 to 16 ^^ inch for every inch, and from K to 20 the same. 

Reduce from P to Y 34 inch for every inch, and from Q to Z the same. 

Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points Y — Z ; and trace the front edge from 
25 through Y and Z to S. 

Place the side of forepart to points 20 — 16 and trace out. 

Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the 
same. (See first diagram.) 

Square up from 21. 

From M to W is the same as from A to B on backpart. 

From V to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. 

From W to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. 

From W to X is proportionately the same as from M to N. (See first diagram.) 

Square forwards from X. 

Now place the pattern to points U — 23 — W, and trace out, also from W to 25. 

Connect all grading points as shown and divide all points into four equal parts and number 
them. 

THE SKIRT. 

Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, J4 inch for every inch. 

Measure the small front and sidebody from S to 16 and to T, and make the skirt from 33 
to 32 the same. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 6. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. 

Place the skirt pattern to points 32 — 36 and trace down; also trace down from 33, divide 
into four equal parts and number each size. 

For cutting out you proceed as follows : 

Place the graded backpart on a paper and mark the centre seam, after which prick through 
all points marked 37. Remove the grade and trace out with the next larger size which is the 38 
backpart. Continue in the same way for the next size. Prick through all points marked 36 
and trace out with the 37 pattern. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Place the graded sidebody on a paper and mark down the side as from E to T and the 
bottom from T to 17. Prick through all places marked 37 and trace out with the 38 pattern. The 
foreparts are cut in the same way. First mark the front of the armscye, after which prick 
through all places marked 37 and trace out with the 38 pattern. 

To increase the frock grade proceed as follows: 

THE BACKPART. 

Extend lines B to A, 2 to 5, 3 to 4, 30 to 29, H to G, C to D and I to J. 

At B — A increase from 38 to 43 in the same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 
34, which is Yf, inch for every size. 

At 2 — 5 increase from 38 to 43 in the same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. 

Increase at all grading points in the same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. 

The sidebody and skirt are increased in the same way as the backpart, «. e., increase in the 
same proportion as the decrease was made. 

The forepart is increased as follows: 

At line Y — P add J4 '"ch for every size, at lines Z — Q and S — R add 5-16 inch for every 
size; at 17 and 16 add -^ inch for every size; all other points are increased in the same pro- 
portion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



23 




DIAGRAM 7. 



24 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a Single Pattern 

The size of this pattern is 42 breast and is graded down to 38. 

THE BACKPART. 

From A to B is ^ inch for every inch. 

Square out from B and make the distance from B to i, ^ of 38 breast. 

From I to 2 is 5^ inch. 

From G to H and 29 to 30 is ]/& inch for every inch, which is 4-8 inch. 

Place the backpart to points H — 30 and trace from 3 to H. 

From 4 to 3 is the same as from A to B. 

Place the backpart to points B — 2 and 2 — 3 and trace out. 

From E to F is iV inch f*^"" every inch. 

From D to C and J to I are the same. 

Place the backpart to points H — F — C — I and trace out. 

Draw lines connecting all grade points from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, E to F, C to D and I to J. 

Divide all f>oints into four equal parts and number them. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Reduce the sidebody from 12 to 13, -^ inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same. 
Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13 — 7 and trace out from 8 to 7, 
and from 7 through 13 and down; from 13 to 15 is the same as 12 to 14. 
From 9 to 8 is T^ inch for every inch. 

Place the sidebody to points 8 — *, which is slightly above the breast line and trace out. 
Now divide all grading points into four equal parts and number them. 

THE FOREPART, 

Reduce from 17 to 16, -^ inch for every inch, and from K to 20 the same. 

Reduce from P to Y ^ inch for every inch, and from Q to Z the same. 

Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points Y — Z; and trace the front edge from 
25 through Y and Z to S. 

Place the side of forepart to points 20 — 16 and trace out. From 18 to 16 is the same as 19 
to 17. From 10 up to the small forepart is the same as 16 is above 17. 

Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the 
same. (See first diagram.) Square up from 21. 

From M to W is the same as from A to B on backpart. 

From \' to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. 

From W to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. 

From W to X is proportionately the same as from iVI to N. (See first diagram.) Square 
forward from X. 

Now place the pattern to points U — 23 — W, and trace out, also from W to 25. 

Connect all grading points as shown and divide all points into four equal parts and number 
them. 

For cutting out always begin with the next to the largest size, in this case the 41. 

Prick through all points marked 41 and trace out with the next largest pattern, which is 
the 42. 

In increasing the sizes begin with the 43 and trace out with the 42 which is the next 
smallest. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



25 




DIAGRAM 8. 



26 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Grade a Double-Breasted Frock Coat from a 

Single Pattern 

The size of this pattern is 38 breast and is graded down to 34. 

THE BACKPART. 

From A to B is J^ inch for every inch. 

Square out from B and make the distance from B to i, >^ of 34 breast. 
From I to 2 is 5^ inch. 

From G to H £ind 29 to 30 is yi inch for every inch, which is 4-8 inch. 
Place the backpart to points H — 30 and trace from 3 to H. 
From 4 to 3 is the same as from A to B. 
Place the backpart to points B — 2 and 2 — 3 and trace out. 
From E to F is T*z inch for every mch. 
From D to C is the same. 

Place the backpart to points H — F — C — I and trace out. 

Draw lines connecting all grade points from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, 30 to 29, E to F, C to D and 
I to J. 

Divide all points into four equal parts and number them. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Reduce the sidebody from 12 to 13 t's inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same. 
Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13 — 7 and trace out from 8 to 7 and 
from 7 through 13 and down. From 13 to 15 is the same as 12 to 17. 
From 9 to 8 is ^ inch for every inch. 

Place the sidebody to points 8 — star, which is slightly above the breast line, and trace out. 
Now divide all grading points into four equal parts and number them. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce from 17 to 16 t*! inch for every inch, and from K to 20 the same. 

Reduce from P to Y ^ inch for every inch, and from Q to Z the same. 

Place the forepart, breast line on breast hne to points Y — Z, and trace the front edge from 
25 through Y and Z to S. Point S is as much above the lower line as line 16 is above line 17. 

Place the side of forepart to points 20 — 16 and trace out. 

Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the 
same. (See first diagram.) Square up from 21. 

From M to W is the same as from A to B on backpart. 

From V to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. 

From W to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. 

From W to X is proportionately the same as from M to N. (See first diagram.) Square 
forward from X. 

Now place the pattern to points U — 23 — W, and trace out, also from W to 25. 

Connect all grading f)oints as shown and divide all points into four equal parts and number 
them. 

THE SKIRT. 

Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, % inch for every inch. 

Measure the small front from S to 16 and 15 to T, and make the skirt from 33 to 32 the 
same. 

From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. 

Place the skirt pattern to points 32 — 36 and trace down; also trace down from 33, divide 
into four equal parts and number each size. 

For cutting out always begin with the next to the largest size, in this case the 37. Prick 
through all points marked 37 and trace out with the next largest pattern, which is the 38. 

The rever is graded as follows : 

From R to 10 is the same as S to 25 on forepart, from 10 to 14 is the same as 11 to 15, 
divide from 10 to 11 and 14 to 15 into four equal parts. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



V 




DIAGRAM 9. 



28 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Ho\A/ to Grade Dress Coats from a Single Pattern 

This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and is graded down to 34 inch breast. The 
back and sidebody being graded the same as the other frock coats, we will just show the front 
and the skirt. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce from 17 to 16, xV '"ch for every inch. 

From K to 20 is the same as 17 to 16. 

Reduce from P to Y ^ inch for every inch and from Q to Z the same. 

Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points Y — Z, and trace the front edge from 
25 through Y and Z to S. 

Place the side of forepart to points 20 — 16 and trace down. 

From C to 16 is the same length as from D to 17. 

Line A is as much above line B as line 16 is above line 17. 

Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the 
same. (See first diagram.) 

Square up from 21. 

From M to W is J^ for every inch. 

From V to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. 

From W to U is ^ inch less than the back shoulder seam. 

From W to X is proportionately the same as from M to N. (See first diagram.) 

Square forward from X. 

Now place the pattern to points U — 23 — W, and trace out; also trace out from W to 10. 

From 25 to 14 is the same as from O to 15. 

From 10 to 26 and from 14 to 26 is where the V is cut out of the small forepart. 

Connect lines from 10 to 11 and from 14 to 15 ; also from 26 to 27. 

Now connect all grading points as shown and divide them all into four equal parts and num- 
ber them. 

THE SKIRT. 

Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33 Y^ inch for every inch, and from 31 to 32 the same. 

From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. 

From 36 to 32 is the same as from 35 to 31. 

Connect points 32 — 31 — 36 — 35, 33 — 34, and divide them all into four equal portions and 
number them. 

Cut out these patterns in the same way as the other graded patterns beginning with the 37 
and tracing it out with the 38. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



29 




DIAGRAM 10. 



30 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Grade a Waistcoat from a Single Pattern 

This grade is made from a 38 breast and is graded down to 34. 

THE BACKPART. 

From A to B is ^ inch for every inch reduction, which is 4-6 inch. Square out from B 
and make the distance from B to C >^ of 34 breast. From C to D is J^ inch. 

Place the square to the breast line so that the right angle will touch at G and square up from 
3 toG. 

From 3 to 2 reduce the backpart ^ inch for every inch ; square up from 2. 

From G to F is the same as from A to B, which is % inch for every inch. 

From I to H reduce the backpart J4 inch for every inch. 

From K to J and M to L are % inch for every inch. 

Place the back pattern to points B — D and trace out; also trace out from D to F, from 
F to H and H through J to L. 

Draw lines connecting points D — E, F — G, H — I, J — K, and L — M. 

Divide all connecting points into four equal parts and number them according to size. 

THE FOREPART. 

Ascertain the distance from 4 to R by sixths and make the distance from 4 to S propor- 
tionately the same. 

For instance, if from 4 to R is 34 of 38 breast plus ^ inch make the distance from 4 to S 
5^ of 34 breast plus ^ inch ; square up from S. 

From Q to P is 34 inch for every inch reduction ; from O to N is the same as from S to P. 

From P to N is '4 inch more than from D to F. 

From W to V reduce the front yi inch for every inch. 

From Y to X and Z to i are the same. 

Place the front edge of pattern to points \' — X — i and trace the front edge; also trace cut 
the shoulder, opening and armscye. 

Draw lines connecting points N — O, P— Q, V'-^W, X — Y and Z — i, and divide all connecting 
points into four equal portions and number them. 

Now beginning with the backpart, mark the center seam and bottom. 

Prick through all points marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 

Follow this up, and as before, prick through all points marked 36 and trace it out with the 
37 pattern and so on until finished. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place your graded forepart on a paper ; mark the armscye and side seam, after which prick 
through all points marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. Keep on in the same way 
until finished, always tracing out with the next larger pattern, 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



31 




DIAGRAM II. 



32 AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Double Grading 



For the man who is sure of his pattern there is nothing Hke the double grade. It is the 
quickest, surest and most simple way, and although some cutters will argue that in case of an 
alteration it is easier to make one model, alter it and grade from it, yet if the cutter finds it 
necessary to change one pattern it is just as easy to change the 42 breast pattern as the 36 or 
the 38, and grade from two patterns. This grade is made from a 36 and a 42 breast pattern. 

This grade is made from a 36 and 42 breast pattern. 

Single'Breasted Sack Coat 

THE B^CKPART. 

Place the backpart of a 36 breast pattern on the backpart of a 42 pattern, with the breast 
line on breast line, and centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small back on the large one. 

Draw lines from D to D, E to E, B to B, F to F, C to C, G to G, and X to X. Divide 
all the corresponding points between the small and large patterns into six equal parts and number 
each division according to size. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 42 breast pattern on a stiff paper ; also mark the breast and waist 
lines and the pockets. 

Place the front of the 36 breast pattern on the 42 front, with breast line on breast line, and 
front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large one ; also mark the 
small pockets on the large pattern. 

Now connect all the grading points as shown from L to L, K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, 
U to U, 6 to 6, J to J, 5 to 5, Q to Q, P to P, O to O, and N to N, and make as many more lines 
as desired so as to ensure perfect lines ; and divide them all into six equal parts and number 
ihem. 

Now place the graded backpart on a paper and mark the centre seam. 

Prick through all points marked 37 and trace out the backpart with the 36 pattern. 

Do this to all backparts, always tracing them with the next smaller pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of armscye. 

Prick through all points marked 37 and trace it out with the 36 pattern. 

Do the same with the 38 forepart, and trace it with the 37 pattern and so on until finished. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



33 




DIAGRAM 12. 



34 AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Double Grading 

This grade is made from a 38 and a 48 breast pattern. 
Single-Breasted Stout Sack 
THE BACKPART. 

Place the backpart of a 38 breast pattern on the backpart of a 48 pattern with the breast line 
on breast line, and centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small back on the large one. 

Draw lines from D to D, E to E, B to B, F to F, C to C, G to G and X to X. 

Divide all the corresponding points between the small and large pattern into ten equal parts 
and number each division according to size. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 48 breast pattern on a stiff paper; also mark the breast and waist 
lines and the pockets. 

Place the front of the 38 breast pattern on the 48 front, with breast line on breast line, and 
front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large one; also mark the 
small pockets on the large pattern. 

Now connect all the grading points as shown from L to L, K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, 
U to U, 6 to 6, J to J, 5 to 5, Q to Q, P to P, O to O, and N to N, and make as many more lines 
as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and number 
them. 

Now place the graded backpart on a paper and mark the centre seam. 

Prick through all points marked 39 and trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern. 

Do this to all backparts, always tracing them with the next smaller pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of armscye. 

Prick through all points marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 

Do the same with the 40 forepart, and trace it with the 39 pattern and so on until finished. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



35 




Tl tX 



PIAGRAM 13. 



36 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Double-Breasted Sack Coat 

THE BACKPART. 

Place the backpart of a 33 breast pattern on the backpart of a 43 pattern, with the breast 
line on breast line, and centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small back on the large one. 

Draw lines from D to D, E to E, B to B, F to F, C to C, G to G, X to X and I to I. 

Divide all the corresponding points between the small and large patterns into ten equal 
parts and number each division according to size. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 43 breast pattern on a stiff paper ; also mark the breast and waist 
lines and pockets. 

Place the front of the 33 breast pattern on the 43 front, with breast line on breast line, and 
front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large one; also mark the 
small pockets on the large pattern. 

Now connect all the grading points as shown from' L to L, K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, 
U to U, 6 to 6, J to J, 5 to 5, Q to Q, P to P, O to O, and N to N, and make as many more 
lines as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and 
number them. 

Now place the graded backpart on a paper and mark the centre seam. 

Prick through all points marked 34 and trace out the backpart with the 33 pattern. 

Do this to all backparts, always tracing them with the next smaller pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of armscye. 

Prick through all points marked 34 and trace it out with the ^^ pattern. 

Do the same with the 35 forepart, and trace it with the 34 pattern and so on until finished. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



37 




DIAGRAM 14. 



38 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Make a Double Grade for a Frock Coat 

This grade is made from 34 to 42 breast. 

THE BACKPART. 
Place the backpart of a 34 size frock coat on a 42 size, with breast line on breast line, and 
centre seam to centre seam. 

Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting points A— A, D— D, E— E, B— B, F— F, C— C, G— G and i— i. 

Now divide all the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them according to sizes. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Place the 34 sidebody on the 4-2 size, with breast line on breast line, keeping them even at line 
8—9, mark the small sidebody on the large one 

Draw lines connecting points I— I, Y — Y, and U — U, and draw as many more lines as you 
like so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 42 breast size on a stiff paper and mark the breast and waist lines. 

Place the forepart of tlie 34 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of 
armscye to front of armscye. 

Mark the small pattern upon the large one. 

Draw lines connectuig points L-L, K-K, R-R, S-S, T-T, J-J, Q-Q, P-P, and O 
— O ; and draw as many more lines as desired to ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts. 

Divide all connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. 

To mark the pockets proceed as follows: 

Mark the regular breast pocket on tlie 42 copy, and mark the regular pocket on the 34 fore- 
part, after which mark the breast pocket of the small pattern on the 42 copy and divide the dif- 
ference between the large and small pockets into 8 equal parts and number them. 

THE SKIRT. 

Place the 34 size skirt on the 42 size keeping them even as at 10 — 7. Mark the small skirt 
on the large one. 

Point 7 is where the skirts diverge. 

Connect points S — 5 and 6 — 6 and divide the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number 
them. 

This finishes the grade. 

Now beginning with tlie backpart. mark the centre seam and prick through all points 

marked 35. 

Remove the graded backpart and trace out the 35 with the 34 pattern. 

Repeat in the same way marking out the 36 size and tracing it out with the 35 backpart. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Place the graded sidebody on a paper and mark as from star (which is where the two side- 
bodies diverge), through 8 to 9. 

Prick through all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 partem. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on -a paper and mark the front of the armscye. 

Pridv through all places marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. 

Repeat the same, marking the 36 and tracing it out with the 35 pattern, and so on until 

finished. 

THE SKIRT. 

Place the graded skirt on a paper and mark from 7 where the t%vo skirts diverge to 10, 
down the front edge and the bottom. 

Prick through at 5 and 6 at places marked 33 : and trace it out with the 34 skirt pattern, making 
all points meet at 7. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



39 




DIAGRAM 15. 



40 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Make a Double Grade for a Stout Frock Coat 

This grade is made from 38 to 48 breast. 

THE BACKPART. 

Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 48 size, with breast line on breast line, and 
centre seam to centre seam. 

Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting points A — A, D — D, E — E, F — F, C — C, G — G, and i — i. 

Now divide all the connecting lines into 10 equal parts and number them according to 
sizes. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Place the 38 sidebody on the 48 size, with breast line on breast line, keeping them even at 
line 8 — ^ ; mark tlie small sidebody on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting points I — I, Y — Y, X — X, and U — U, and draw as many more lines as 
you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 48 breast size on a stiff paper and mark the breast and waistlines. 

Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of 
armscye to front of armscye. 

Mark the small pattern upon the large copy. 

Draw lines connecting points L— L, K— K, R— R, S— S, T— T, J— J, Q— Q, P— P, and O 
— O; and draw as many more lines as desired to ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts. 

Divide all connecting lines into 10 equal parts and number them. 

Now beginning with the backpart : 

Mark the centre seam and prick through all points marked 39. 

Remove the graded backpart and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. 

Repeat in the same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with the 39 backpart. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Place the graded sidebody on a paper and mark as from star, (which is where the two side- 
bodies diverge), through 8 to 9. 

Prick through all jxiints marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of the armscye. 
Prick through all places marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 
Repeat the same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and so on until 
finished. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



4i 




DIAGRAM i6. 



42 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

How to Make a Double Grade for a Double-Breasted 

Frock 

This grade is made from a 38 to 44 breast. 

THE BACKPART. 
Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 44 size, with breast line on breast line, and 
centre seam to centre seam. 

Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting points A — A, D — D, E — E, B — B, F — F, C — C, G — G, and i — i. 

Now divide all the connecting lines into 6 equal parts and number them according to sizes. 

THE SIDEBODY. 
Place the 38 sidebody on the 44 size, with breast line on breast line. Keeping them even at 
line 8 — 9, mark the small sidebody on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting points I — I, Y — Y, X — X and U — U and draw as many more lines as 
you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded. 

THE FOREPART. 
Copy the forepart of the 44 breast size on a stiff paper and mark the breast and waist lines. 
Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of 
armscye to front of armscye. 

Mark the small pattern upon the large copy. 

Draw lines connecting points L— L, K— K, R— R, S— S, T— T, J— J, Q—Q, P— P, and 
O — O; and draw as many more lines as desired to ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts. 
Divide all connecting lines into 6 equal parts and number them. 

THE SKIRT. 
Place the 38 size skirt on the 44 size, keeping them even at star, which is half way between 
5 and 7. Mark tlie small skirt on the large one. 

Connect points 5 — 5, 6 — 6, 7 — 7 and 8 — 8 and divide the connecting lines into 6 equal parts 
and number them. 

THE REVER. 
Place the rever of the 38 coat on the 44 rever, keeping them even on the straight line and 
bottom; connect points 9 — 9, and 10 — 10 and divide them into 6 equal parts. 

Now beginning with the backpart, mark the centre seam and prick through all points 
marked 39. 

Remove the graded backpart and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. 

Repeat in the same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with the 39 backpart. 

THE SIDEBODY. 
Place the graded sidebody on a paper and mark as from star, which is where the two side- 
bodies diverge through 8 to 9. 

Prick through all points marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 
Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of the armscye. 
Prick through all places marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 
Repeat the same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and so on until fin- 
ished. 

THE SKIRT. 

Place the graded skirt on a paper and mark across the top as from 5 through the star to 7. 

Prick through at 5 — 6 — 7 — 8 at places marked 39. Remove the grade and trace out with 
the 38 pattern. Do the same with the 40 and trace out with the 39 pattern and so on until fin- 
ished. 

The rever is cut out the same as the other parts. 



1 



I 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



43 




DIAGRAM 17. 



44 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Make a Double Grade for a Dress Coat 

This grade is made from 34 to 42 breast. 

This grade being made the same as the other double grade frock coats, it is only necessary 
to describe the foreparts. 

THE FOREPART. 

Copy the forepart of the 42 breast size dress coat on a stiff paper and mark the breast line. 

Place the forepart of the 34 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of 
armscye to front of armscye. 

Mark the small pattern upon the large copy. 

Draw lines connecting points I^-L, K— K, R— R, S— S, T— T, J— J, Q— Q, P— P, and 
0—0. 

Points 3 — M is where the V is cut out of the gorge, and points 11 — 12 — 13 is where the 
fish is cut out at the waist. 

Connect points 11— 11, 12—12, and 13 — 13, also M — M and 3— 3. 

Divide all connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them. 

Place the graded forepart on a paper and mark the front of the armscye. 

Prick through all places marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. 

Repeat the same, marking the 36 and tracing it out with the 35 pattern, and so on until 
finished. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



45 




DIAGRAM 1 8. 



46 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



The Sleeve 

The sleeves are graded as follows; 

The coats being graded, measure the armscye of the smaller pattern and also the armscye 
of the largest pattern and cut a sleeve for each coat. 

HOW TO GRADE. 

These sleeves are graded from 34 to 42. 

Place the top sleeve of the 34 pattern on the top sleeve of the 42, the sleeves to lay 
even at O — A, so that the front notch will come together on both sleeves. 

Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting E — E, C — C, B — B and A — A. Put in other lines as at F — F, 
G — G, and H — H, so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the patterns. 

Divide all connecting lines into eight equal portions and number them according to sizes. 

THE UNDERSLEEVE. 

Place the undersleeve of the 42 size on a stiff paper and trace it out. 

Place the undersleeve of the 34 pattern on the 42 undersleeve. 

Keep them even at points N — J. Mark the small undersleeve on the large one. 

Now connect points N — N, J — J ; also connect at the elbow at M — M and P — P. 

Divide all connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them. 

Now place the graded top sleeve on a sheet of paper and mark as from I (which is where 
the two sleeves diverge), to point O and from O to A. 

Prick th.'f ugh all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. 

Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36 and trace it out with the 
35 pattern. 

THE UNDERSLEEVE. 

Place the graded undersleeve on a paper and mark as from N to J. 
Prick through all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. 
Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36, and tracing it out with the 
35 pattern, and so on until finished, always tracing out with the next smaller size. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



47 




DIAGRAM 19. 



48 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Grade Collars 

The grading of collars ought to be well understood after the description of the other grades. 

Cut a collar for the smallest pattern and one for the largest pattern. 

Place the small pattern on top of the large one, the crease line as at point A to meet. 

Draw lines connecting the small collar with the large one, divide them into as many parts 
as the difference is between the smallest and the largest pattern, number them, cut them out in 
the same way as all double grades are cut, beginning with the next to the smallest collar and 
always tracing it out with the smaller size. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



49 




DIAGRAM 20. 



50 A M ERIC AN PATTERN- GRADER 



The Double Grade 

How to Grade Vests from Two Patterns 

This grade is made from 34 inches to 42 inches breast. 

Place the backpart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on a 42 inch back pattern with breast line 
on breast line and centre seam to center seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting all grading points as from A — A, B — B, C — C, E — E, F — F, and 
G — G; also connect the two armscyes as at D — D, and divide all the grading points into eight 
equal parts, and number them. 

THE FOREPART. 

Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper ; mark the breast and waist 
lines, also the pockets. 

Now place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line 
on breast line, and front of armscye to front of armscye; mark the small pattern on the large 
one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. 

N'ow draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J — J, L — L, M — M, O — O, 
and I — I ; also connect the pockets as from S — S, R — R, Q — Q, and P — P. 

Put in as many extra lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. 

Divide all the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. This finishes the grade. 

Now, beginning with the backpart, mark the centre seam and bottom, after which prick 
through all points marked 35. 

Remove the grade and trace out the 35 backpart with the 34 pattern. 

Continue in the same way with the 36, tracing it out with the 35 pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of the arm- 
sc>c, the side of tlie forepart and part of the bottom, after which prick through all places marked 

35- 

Remove the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. 

Continue in the same way, always tracing out. with the next smaller pattern. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



51 




DIAGRAM 21. 



A M E RICA i\ P A T T B R N GRADER 



The Double Grade 



How to grade stout vests from two patterns. 

This grade is made from 38 inches to 48 inches breast. 

Place the backpart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on a 48 inch back pattern with breast line on 
breast hne and centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one. 

Draw lines connecting all grading points as from A — A, B — B, C — C, E — E, F — F, and 
G — G ; also connect the two armscyes as at D — D, and divide all the grading points into ten 
equal parts, and number them. 

THE FOREPART. 

Trace out the forepart of a 48 inch breast waistcoat on a paper; mark the breast and waist 
lines also the pockets. 

Now place the forepart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on the 48 forepart with breast line 
on breast line, and front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large 
one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. 

Now draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J — J, L — L, M — M, O — O, 
and I — I ; also connect the pockets as from S — S, R — R, Q — Q, and P — P. 

Put in as many more lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. 

Divide all the connecting lines into ten equal ])arts and number them. This finishes the 
grade. 

Now beginning with the backpart. 

Mark the centre seam and tottom, after which prick through all points marked 39. 

Remove the grade and trace out the 39 backpart with the 38 pattern. 

Continue with the 40 in the same way, tracing it out with the 39 pattern. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of tlie arm- 
scye, the side of the forepart and part of the bottom, after which prick through all places 
marked 39. 

Remove the grade and trace out with the 38 pattern. 

Continue in the same way, always tracing out with the next smaller pattern. 



A M ER I C A N P ATT RRX GRADER 



53 




DIAGRAM 22 



54 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



\~\oyv to Grade a Double-Breasted NA^aistcoat from 

Two Patterns 

The double grade for the double breasted waistcoat is made the same as the other waist- 
coats, except lines L — V, which shows the centre of lap. 

Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper ; mark the breast and waist 
lines, also the pockets. 

Now place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line 
on breast line, and front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large 
one ; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. 

Now draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J — J, L — L, M — M, O — O, 
and I — I; also connect the pockets as from S — S, R — R, Q — Q, and P — P. 

Put in as many more lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. 

Divide all the connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them. This finishes the 
grade. 

Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of the arm- 
scye, the side of the forepart and part of the bottom, after which prick through all places marked 

35- 

Remove the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. 

Continue in the same way always tracing o.it with the next smaller pattern. 



A M E h' I C .1 .\ PATTER N GRADER 



55 




DIAGRAM 23. 



56 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Grade Trousers 



These trousers are graded between 34 and 40 seat. 

THE FOREPART. 

Place the forepart of a 34 size pattern on the forepart of a 40 pattern with lines B — G on 
lines B — G, and centre line on centre line. 

If the trousers have no centre line, a centre line may be drawn in the following manner; 
Point E is half way between D and L and the double circle line is half way between B and G. 

Draw a line from E through the double circle. 

Now place centre line on centre line. 

Draw lines connecting the smallest with the largest pattern, as from A to A, I to I, B to 
B, C to C, D to D, L to L, K to K, G to G, J to J, and H to H. 

Divide all connecting lines into 6 equal part.s and number them. 

THE BACKPART. 

Place the 34 backpart on the 40 backpart, keeping them even at the side seam. 

Connect points M— M, N— N, O— O, P— P, Q— Q, R— R, S— S, T— T, U— U, \'— V, and 
W— W. 

Divide all connecting lines into 6 equal portions and number them. 

The backpart may be graded either in the way as explained here, or it may be graded half 
and half in the same way as the forepart is. 

If the side seams of the smallest and largest backparts are even, it is best to grade in this 
way because it saves time, but if the side seams do not come out even it is best to grade them 
half and half the same way as the foreparts are graded. 

Now place the graded foreparts on a paper; prick through all points marked 35 and trace 
it out with a 34 pattern. 

Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36 and trace them out with 
the 35 pattern and so on until finished. 

THE BACKPART. 

Place the graded backpart on a piece of paper and trace down the side seam ; prick through 
all ]X)ints marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. 

If the backpart is graded half and half then it must be cut out in the same way as the 
forepart. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



57 




DIAGRAM 24. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 

5« Block Patterns and How to Use Them 

In the use of block patterns, the various attitudes are divided into three degrees, i.e., the 
shghtly erect, the erect and the over-erect ; the slightly stooping, the stooping and the very stoop- 
ing (the hunchback is not considered in the stooping class) ; the slightly sloping, the sloping and 
the very sloping shoulders ; the. normal, the square and the high shoulder's. 

To meet these attitudes, use 34 inch for each degree in the following manner: 

For instance, if your order calls for a coat or a waistcoat for a slightly stooping figure, it 
means that the scye depth is to be lengthened J4 inch and the strap to be left as it is. 

If the figure is described as stooping add >4 inch to the scye depth and deduct the same 
amount from the strap. This makes the back part "^ inch longer than the forepart. 

If the figure is described as very stooping, add ys inch to the scye depth, and deduct the 
same amount from the strap. This makes }i inch difTerence between the back and forepart. 

The reverse is the rule for the erect. If the figure is described as slightly erect, reduce the 
scye depth % inch and leave the strap as it is. 

If erect, reduce the scye depth J4 inch and add the same to the strap, which makes the fore- 
part 1/2 inch longer than the backpart. If over-erect, reduce the scye depth % inch, and add the 
same to the strap, which again makes up three degrees. 

For the sloping shoulder, add ^4 inch to both scye depth, and strap for each degree, and 
for the square shoulders, reduce >4 inch from both scye depth and strap for each degree, of 
course the various heights must be considered, and these will be explained in connection with 
the proportion table on the first and second diagrams of How To Use Block Patterns. 

DIAGRAM 25 

The measurements given for block patterns are usually in the following manner : 

Coat length 30 inches Sleeve 31 inches 

Breast over vest 38 inches Height 5 feet 4 inches 

Waist 34 inches Figure Normal 

Hip 40 inches Shoulders Normal 

By consulting the proportion table, we find the short measures as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Waist length 16 inches Blade (actual) 11^ inches 

Strap I2j^ inches To which add i^ inches 

Total 13 inches 

Select a block pattern to correspond w^ith the breast measure of your order and proceed as 
follows : 

From M to B is the scye depth for a 38 breast, 5 feet 4 inches in height, plus }i inch, which 
is g}i inches. 

Move the backpart down to B and keeping even at the centre seam, mark from B to D. 

From E to F is ^ the distance of A to B. Turn the back shoulder and mark from D to F. 

THE FOREPART. 

From I to J and K to L are the same as from A tp B. 
From G to H is the same as from E to F on backpart. 

Move the pattern down, keeping it even at the front edge, and mark from J to L. Turn 
the front shoulder and shape from H to J and finish. 

SLEEVES'-DIAGRAM 26 

The sleeves are used as follows : 

Measure the upper part of the armscye from 6, which is the notch, to F, and from 5, which 
is the front notch, to H ; in this case, the measure is gyi inches. 

Now select the sleeve to correspond with the pattern used, and draw a line from i (which 
is the front notch) to 2. 

From I to 2 is gyi inches. 

Reshape the top of sleeve as per broken line. 
Now measure the width of back from 6 to the centre seam, apply the amount to 2, and meas- 
ure down to 3, full length plus ^ inch. 

Move the pattern up to 3, keeping it even at the front of sleeve and re-shape. 



/i MERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



59 





(X, AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 27 

The measurements are as follows: 

Full length 32>4 inches Sleeve 34 inches 

Breast over vest 38 inches Height 6 feet 

Waist 34 inches Figure Normal 

Hip 40 inches Shoulders Normal 

By consulting the proportion table, we find the short measurements as follows: 

Scve depth 10 inches Overshoulder 18^ inches 

Waist length 18 inches Blade 1 1>4 inches 

Strap 133^ inches Add for make-up i>^ inches 

Total 13 inches 

Measure from M to A, the scye depth, plus 3^ inch, which is 10% inches. 
From F to E is >^ the distance from A to B. 

Move the backpart up to A and keeping the back pattern even at the centre seam, mark 
from A to C. Turn the back pattern and mark from C to E and finish. 

THE FOREPART. 

From J to I and L to K are the same distance as from B to A. 

Move the pattern up to K and keeping it even at front edge, mark from I to K ; Turn 
the front shoulder and shape it from I to G. 

From I to G is % inch less than C to E. The waist length and full length are measured 
out in the regular way. 

THE SLEEVE'^^DIAGRAM 28 

Measure the upper part of armscye from 6 to E, and 5 to G, in this case the measure is 9^ 
inches. 

Now take the same sleeve pattern and measure from i to 2, 9)4 inches. Re-shape the top 
of sleeve from 2. 

Measure the back width from 6 to the centre seam. Apply the amount to 2 and measure 
down to 3 for full length plus ^ inch. 

Move the pattern down to 3, keeping it even at the front and re-shape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



6i 




62 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Block Patterns and How to Use Them 

This will show how to change a pattern from a normal to an erect figure. The erect figure 
must be classified into at least two degrees, i.e., the erect and over-erect. 

For the erect figure the change is made as follows (see diagram 29) : 

Shorten the back scye from 14 to 15, 16 to 17 and 18 to 19, say J4 inch. 

Raise the forepart or lengthen the strap from 22 to 23, 54 inch ; add the same % inch from 
20 to 21 and from 24 to 25 ; reshape as per broken lines. 

The over-erect is the figure that not alone walks erect with shoulders thrown back, but 
whose back is small or flat and whose chest is full. 

The change is therefore made as follows (see Diagram 30) : 

Reduce the backpart from 2 to i and 4 to 3, ^ inch ; also reduce the same amount from 6 to 
5. 8 to 7 and 10 to 9 ; re-shape as per broken line. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce "he side seam of the forepart from 20 to 19 and 18 to 17, J4 inch. This makes the 
coat y2 inch smaller at the side. 

Now add ^ inch at the front edge of the forepart as from 16 to 15 all the way down; also 
add 34 inch from 14 to 13 and form 12 to 11 and re-shape. Cut out a V at the gorge and finish. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



63 





64 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Block Patterns 

DIAGRAM 33 
The Hunchback 

There is no set rule for changing a pattern from a normal to a hunchback, for the reason 
that the largest part of the hump is not always in the same place, neither is it always in the 
centre of the back, but in a general way the pattern may be fixed as follows: 

Select the pattern corresponding with the breast measure and height. Split the back- 
part and open it as from A to B say ^ inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after 
which reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and re-shape to G. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the forepart from H to J and K to L the same amount as from C to D on the 
backpart. 

Move the pattern down to points J — L and re-shape as per broken line. From J to M is 
^ inch less than F to G on backpart. 

DIAGRAM 34 

Normal Figure, Square Shoulders 

Reduce the backpart from A to B ^ inch and from C to D the same. 

Move the backpart down to points B — D and re-shape as from B to D and D to E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the forepart from I to J M inch and from K to L the same. 
Move the pattern down to J — L and trace out ; also trace out from G to J. 
From J to H is ^ inch less than D to E. Finish as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



65 




66 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGPvAM 31 

Figure Stcxjping, Shoulders Normal 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. 

Move the backpart up to points B — D and trace out from B to D and D to L. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the forepart from E to F and G to H J4 inch. 

Move the forepart down to F — H, and trace out from J to F and F to H broken line. 

From F to J is Yi inch less than D to L. 

DIAGRAM 32 
Stooping Figures with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal 

THE BACKPART 

Add from A to B, C to D, E to F, G to H and I to J '4 "ich and reshape as per broken 
line. 

THE FOREPART 

Add to the side of forepart % inch as from K to L. 

Reduce the forepart at tlie front edge the same amount that has been added to the side 
seams, which is J-S inch. 

Reduce from M to N, O to P and R to Q 34 inch. 

From N to P is ^ inch less than D to F on backpart. Reshape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



67 




68 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 35 

Figure Erect, Shoulders Square 

Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D ^ inch, and re-shape to E. 
Reduce the forepart from F to H ^ inch. 

From H to G on forepart is y& inch less thin D to E on backpart; re-shape as per broken 
line. 

DIAGPvAM 36 
Stooping Figure, Squau-e Shoulder 

These figures are usually built with large blades and flat chest. ( See diagram showing stoop- 
ing figure flat chest), but the actual change for the stooping figure, square shoulders with the 
normal blade is made as follows : 

Leave the backpart as it is and reduce the forepart from i to 2 and 3 to 4, >:4 or ^ inch and 
re-shape from 5. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



69 




70 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 37 

Normal Figure, Sloping Shoulders 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from B to A 5^ inch and from D to C the same. 
Move the backpart up to A — C and re-shape as to E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add from J to I 5^ inch and from L to K the same. 

Move the pattern up to I — K and re-shape. 

From I to G is fi inch less than C to E. Finish as per broken line. 

DIAGKAM 38 

Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect 

THE BACKPART. 

Add to the scye depth ^ inch from A to B and C to D. Re-shape as per broken line to 
E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add ^ inch from H to J and F to G. Re-shape as per broken line to point K. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



71 




72 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 39 
Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders 

THE BACKPART. 

Raise the backpart from A to B and C to D ^ inch. From B to D is the same as A to 
C. Re-shape to E as per broken line. 

THE FOREPART. 

Raise the forepart from H to I ^4 i"ch. 

Add y4 inch from F to G and re-shape as per broken line. 

DIAGKAM 40 
How to Increase the Waist 

Add from D to E 34 inch for every inch addition to the waist. 

Sweep from B to C pivoting at A. 

From B to C is 5^ the amount of from D to E. Re-shape as per broken hne. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



73 





74 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 41 

How to Decrease the Waist Size 

Reduce from D to E, % inch for every inch the waist is to be reduced. 

Sweep from B to C pivoting at A. 

Advance from B to C ^ the amount of D — E. 

Place the forepart to points H — E and reshape. 

Add from F to G the same amount as the front edge is reduced at the bottom. 

DIAGRAM 42 

How to Exaggerate a Coat from a Block Pattern 

THE BACK. 

Mark around the back from A to K and from K down to L. 

Add from B to C ^ inch for every inch exaggeration, in this case yi inch for 2 inches. 

From F to G is the same as B to C. 

From D to E is the same as B to C. 

Move the pattern, the side seam to touch at G — C and E, and reshape. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add from H to L on forepart the same as from B to C on backpart. 

From J to R and O to M are the same as from H to I. Move the pattern forwards, the front 
edge to touch at R — I and reshape. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



75 





7^ AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Make a Double-Breasted Forepart from a 
Single-Breasted Pattern 

DIAGRAM 43 



E>rop the gorge >4 inch at A. 

Add from B to C 2j4 inches and from D to E the same. 

From E to G is I inch. 

Place the square to points F — G and square down to H. 

Re-shape as per broken line. 



How to Make a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary 
Sack Coat Pattern 

DIAGRAM 44 

After the pattern is cut out as usual, proceed as follows: 
THE BACKPART. 

Point F is half way between E and G; from E to A is i% inches; G to B is the same; 
cut the back through as marked ; now add a seam to the lower portion of the back and add the 
same to the yoke. 

The forepart is made in the same way. From K to J is i inch; I is half way between H 
and J ; from H to C is J^ inch ; K to D is the same ; cut the pattern through as from C to I and 
from I to D; add a seam to the lower part of the front and the same to the yoke.. 



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77 




78 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 45. 



How to Increase the Waist Length in a Frock Coat 

Apply the waist length desired as from O to B. 

From C to D is the same as from A to B. 

Move the back pattern down to B— D and re-shape. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

From E to F and G to H are the same as from A to B. 
Move the sidebody down to F — H and re-shape. 

THE FOREPART. 

From I to J and K to L are the same as G to H. 

Move the front pattern down to J — L, keeping it even at the front edge and re-shape. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



79 




DIAGRAM 46. 



How to Shorten the Waist of a Frock Coat 



Apply the waist length desired from O to B. 
From C to D is the same as from A to B. 
Move the backpart up to B — D and re-shape. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

From E to F and G to H are the same as from A to B. 
Move the sidebody up to H — F and re-shape. 

THE FOREPART. 



From I to J and K to L are the same as G to H. 

Move the front pattern up to J — L, keeping it even at the front edge and re-shape. 



8o 



/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 47. 



Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. 

Move the backpart up to points B — D and trace out from B to D and D to J. 

THE FOREPART. 



Reduce the forepart from E to F and G to H J/4 inch. 

Move the forepart down to F — H, and trace out from N to F and F to H broken line. 

From F to N is Yf, inch less than D to J. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 48. 



Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Chest, 
Shoulders Normal 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from A to B and C to D, ^4 inch. 
Add at E and F the same and re-shape. 

THE SIDEBODY. 
Add % inch at G and H and the same at H and I, and re-shape. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add to the side of forepart % inch at J and K. 

Reduce the forepart at the front edge the same amount that has been added to the side 
seams which is j4 inch. 

Reduce from R to S and P to Q, 34 inch. 
Reduce the same at T and re-shape, 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 49. 



Frock Coat for Hunchback 

Select the pattern corresponding with the breast measure and height. Split the backpart 
and open it as from A to B say fi inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after which 
reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and reshape to G. 

THE FOREPART. 



Reduce from H to J the same as C to D on backpart. 

From K to L is the same as H to J. 

Place the pattern to points L — J and trace out : also trace out the shoulder from J to N. 

From J to M is 's inch less than F to G on backpart. Reshape as per broken line. 



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83 




DIAGRAM 50. 



Frock Coat for Over Erect Figure, Shoulders Normal 

THE BACKPART. 

Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, K '"ch. 
Reduce at E and G Ys, inch and re-shape as per broken line. 

THE SIDEBODY. 
Reduce at F and 19, H inch. 
Reduce the same amount from 19 to 20 and re-shape. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the forepart at 16 and 21 Yg inch. 

Add from 12 to 13 and 15 to 14 J4 inch, which is the amount the sidebody and side of 
forepart have been reduced. 

Add from 6 to 7 and 8 to 9 % inch and reshape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Make a Square Shouldered Inverness Out 
of a Kegular Overcoat 

Select an overcoat pattern of the size required and proceed as follows: 

THE BACKPART. 
Reduce the backpart from B to A and D to C until the side seam is straight. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add from M to N and P to Q the same amount as the backpart is reduced from B to A and 
D to C. Extend the breast line as to U. 

From K to R is the sleeve length. 

Sweep from R forward to S and back to U, pivoting at F. 

From S to T is I inch. From K to L is 3 inches. 

Square back from L and shape the armscye from G through H and back to O. 

From G to If is '4 breast. Sweep from G to J, pivoting at H. 

From G to J is I J/^ inches. Draw a line from U to J. Add 34 inch rounding to line U — J 
and finish. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 51. 



86 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



How to Use Block Patterns 

How to Make a Round Shouldered Inverness Out 

of a Regular Overcoat Pattern 

Select an overcoat pattern of the size required and proceed as follows: 

THE BACKPART. 
From A to B is 1^4 inches. Shape the backpart through B and the notch as indicated. 

THE CAPE. 

Extend the breast line from E back. From E to M is 3/2 breast. Draw a line from M to 
K. Point N is half way between M and K. From N to O is iJ4 inches. 

K to L is M inch. Shape the cape from AI through O and L to J. Now mark arotmd 
the pattern from J to T, around the gorge and down the front edge. From E to P is the 
sleeve length. Sweep from P forwards to R and back to Q, pivoting at T. From R to S is 
I inch. Re-shape as indicated. 

THE FOREPART. 

From E to F is 3J2 inches. Square back from F to G. Shape the armscye from J to 
G. From C to D on backpart is the same as H to G on forepart. Notch the back at D. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



87 




DIAGRAM 52. 



88 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Circular Cape 



Square down and out from B. 

Take overcoat pattern of the size required and place the center of back pattern to Hne 
A — C ; place the forepart, the front edge to touch at line B — D with the back and shoulder 
pitch to touch as at point 4 ; mark around the back as from A to U and from U to 4 and the 
forepart from 4 to i and from i to 24. 

Point 24 is where the notch comes on the forepart ; add from U to 7 on the backpart 
% inch and reduce the front shoulder from i to 25 the same; re-shape as -indicated. 

Reduce the cape at the front edge at 24 — Z, i inch ; draw a line from A to 24 ; point O is 
lialf way between A and 24 ; from A to C is the length of the cape desired ; sweep from C to Z, 
pivoting at O ; from C to E is Y^ inch ; Z to I is i inch ; re-shape the cape and finish. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



89 




DIAGRAM 53 



90 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 54. 



Shoulder Cape 



Select the overcoat pattern for the size desired and proceed as follows : 

Draw line A — C; place the backpart pattern, the edge to touclv at A — C, and mark around 

it as from A to D and D to E; line B is the breast line; from B to F is 14 breast; F to G is 

Yi breast 

Draw a line from D through G ; from A to C is the length of the cape desired ; sweep from 

C to H, pivoting at D; from H to I is 2^ inches; from I back to J is i inch; shape the side 

as indicated from D through E to J and shape the bottom of the cape from C to J. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



91 




DIAGRAM 55. 



THE FOREPART. 

The forepart is made as follows : 

Place the forepart pattern on a sheet of paper and mark around it as indicated. 

From A to D is % breast ; from A to B is i inch ; A to C is the same ; from D to C is the 
same length as D to B; line E is the breast line; from E to O is i inch; O to F is 314 inches; 
from F to G is >4 breast ; G to H is ^ breast ; draw a straight line from C through H to get J ; 
from J to K is I inch ; sweep from K to L, pivoting at P ; from L to M is i inch and from M to 
N is the same; from P to B and C to K of the forepart is K inch more than D to J of the back- 
part. Shape the front of cape and finish as represented. 



92 



AM ERIC AX PATTERX GRADER 




DIAGR--^M 56. 



Shoulders Normal. Figure Erect 
THE BACKPART. 

Reduce the scye depth y^ inch from A to B and C to D. Re-shape as per broken line to 

point E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add ^ inch from H to G and F to J. Re-shape as per broken Hne to J. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



93 




DIAGRAM 57. 



Flat Blade, Full Breast 

THE BACKPART. 

Reduce from A to B >4 inch, and re-shape as per broken line to E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add from O to P and M to N ^ inch. 

Reduce from I to J and K to L >^ inch and re-shape as per broken lines. 



94 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 58. 



Shoulders Square, Figure Erect 
THE BACKPART. 
Reduce the scye depth % inch from A to B and C to D. Re-shape as per broken Hne to E. 

THE FOREPART. 
Reduce yi inch from G to H. Re-shape as per broken line to point F. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



95 




DIAGRAM 59. 



to E 



Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect 

THE BACKPART. 
Add to the scye depth Y^ inch from B to A and D to C. Then re-shape as per broken lina 

THE FOREPART. 
Add J4 inch from H to G. Then re-shape as per broken line to F. 



96 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 60. 



Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders 
THE BACKPART. 



Add from A to B, and C to D 34 inch. 
From B to D is the same as A to C. 
Re-shape to point E, as per broken line. 



THE FOREPART. 



Reduce the forepart from H to I, % inch. 
Add 34 inch from G to F, and re-shape. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



97 




DIAGRAM 6i. 



Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulder 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from A to B and C to D ^4 inch and re-shape to E. 

THE FOREPART. 

Add from G to F 54 inch and from I to H the same. 
From H to F is }i inch more than from D to E. 
Re-shape as per broken line. 



q« 



A M H R I C .•/ .V P A T T E R N GRADER 




DIACRAM 6: 



Stooping Figure. Square Shoulders 

THE BACKFART. 

Rctiuce the back from D to A V4 inch. 

From n to C is the same as A to B. 

The ilistancc from .\ to C is the same as B to D. Ro-shapo. 

THE FORErART. 

From 1 1 to I is ' .< inch, rc-shape as per broken line. 



A M E R I C A N P A TTERN GRADER 



99 




DIAGRAM 63. 



Large Blade, Flat Breast 

THE BACKPART. 

Add from G to H and I to J >$ inch. 
Add from E to F J^ inch and re-shape as per broken line. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce from M to N and K to L "/$ inch and re-shape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTF.RN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 64. 



A Vest for a Hunchback 

THE BACKrART. 

Reduce from A to B and E to F : inch, and rc-shape as per broken line to G. 

Split the backpart as from C to H and open it until the distance from C to D is i inch. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the front shoulders from K to L i inch and re-shape it as per broken line from 

I to L. 

From L to J is yz inch more than F to G. Re-shape armscye. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 65. 



How to Make a Clerical Waistcoat Out o^ an 
Ordinary Pattern 

Point A is the shoukler point. 

Place the square to the breast line, and square from B to E. 

Square from B forward to C. 

From B to C is J/^ breast plus J/$ inch. 

Shape the front edge from C down. 

From C to D is J/^ breast plus J/2 incii. 

B to F is ^ breast. Draw a line from F to D, and shape the gorge. 



THE COLLAR. 
From D to H is J^ inch. 
Draw a line from H through B to get L 
From I to J is Y^ inch. 
Shape the collar from J to H and finish, making the height of the same as desired. 



AMERICAS PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM GCy 



A Clergyman's Waistcoat to Button on the Side 

Point A is the shoulder point. 

From A to B is ^ inch. 

Place your square to the breast line and square from P to E. 

Square forward from P> to C % breast, ])lus lj^ inch. 

Reduce the front at G and J one seam or '^ inch, and shape the front edge from C to ]. 

From C to D is ^f, breast i)his ^ inch. 

H to F is >^ breast. Draw a line from F to D and shape the gorge. 

The collar is made the same as on the ordinary clergyman's vest. 

The piece for the button .stand is cut as follows; 

Follow the side of forciwrt. shoulder and armscye as indicated. 

From P> to K is I inch. L is I'i inches from the side seam. Cut the piece as from L to K 
and finish. The buttonholes are cut in the forepart and the buttons are placed on the small 
piece. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



103 




DIAGRAM 67. 



How to Make a Doubled- Breasted Vest Out of a Single- 

Breasted Pattern 



Go back from A to B >4 inch, and from E to D the same. 

Draw a line from B through D to F. 

From C to J is 3 inches. F to G is V/a inches. 

Draw a line from J to G. 

From J to I is ^ inch. 

G to H is the same. 

Re-shape the gorge and finish the bottom. 



104 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 68. 



How to Make a Double-Breasted Dress Waistcoat Out 
of a Single-Breasted Block Pattern 

From 5 bade to. 4 is Jl inch. 7 back to 6 is tiie same. 

Draw a line from 4 through 6 to get 10. 

From 10 to 11 is i,'4 inches. 11 to 12 is -)i inch. 

6 to 8 is 23/2 inches, and 8 to 9 is ^ inch. 

Draw lines from 8 to 11, and from 9 to 12. 

From 5 back to 3 is >^ breast. 

Draw a line from 2 through 3 down. 

Apply the opening measure plus yi inch from A to B and 2 to 6; and the full length plus 

I ;4 inches to 10. 

Sweep from 10 to 12 and back, pivoting at 4, and re-shape as mdicated. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



105 




DIAGRAM 69. 



How to Make a Dress Vest Out of a Regular Pattern 

From 6 to s is 3>^ inches. ■ • u • 1/ • i. 

Place the bottom buttonhole at 5. The top buttonhole place at pomt 4, which is /^ inch 
above the waist line. 

From 2 to 3 is Yb breast. 

Draw a line from i to 3 and shape the gorge. 



]o6 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 70. 

How to Reduce the Rise; Also How to Shorten or 
Lengthen Trousers 

THE FRONTPART. 
Reduce the rise from A to B as much as desired. 
From C to D is the same as from A to B. 
Move the pattern down to B — D and measure 34 of waist from B to D. 

THE BACKPART. 
Reduce the rise from V to W and X to Y the same as the forepart is reduced from A to B. 

How to Shorten Trousers 

Apply the inseam length from the crutch down to H. 

From E to F is the same as G to H. 

Move the pattern up to F — H and re-shape. 

From L to M and J to K is half the distance of G to H. 

THE BACKPART. 
From N to Q and O to P is the same as G to H on forepart. 
From S to T and R to U are the same as L to M on forepart. 
Move the back pattern up to P — Q and re-shape. 
To increase the rise and length proceed in the opposite way. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



107 




DIAGRAM 71. 

Trousers 

The size of trousers is indicated by the seat measure, so in using block patterns always take 
the pattern corresponding with the seat measure and alter as follows : 

To reduce the waist : 

THE FRONT PARTS. 

From C to B is ^ of waist measure, i. e., 9 for 36 or 10 for 40; re-shape as per solid 
line. 

THE BACKPART. 

From V to W is ;4 waist plus 2^4 inches, re-shape as per solid line, and take out a }i 
inch V as indicated. 

To reduce the knee : 

Point F is half way between H and J- 

From F to I is 34 of knee desired. F to G is the same; re-shape as per broken line. 

THE BACKPART. 

Point O is half way between Q and S. From O to R is ■4 of the knee desired plus Yz 
inch for seams. O to P is the same ; re-shape. 

To increase the size of knee proceed in the same manner. 



io8 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 72. 

Trousers 

The size of trousers is indicated by the seat measure, so in using block patterns always take 
the pattern corresponding with the seat measure. 
To increase the waist, proceed as follows: 

THE FRONTPARTS. ^ 

Point 9 is half way between 3 and 4. 

From 9 to 5 is J^ of the full waist, i. e., 5 for 40. 

9 to 2 is the same. 

From 5 to 6 is J< inch more than 4 to 5. 

Draw a line from 2 to 6 and re-shape as per broken line. 

THE BACKPART. 

If the seat measure is only i or 2 inches larger than the waist measure, leave the V out of 
the backpart, and measure as follows: 

From 7 to 8 is J4 waist plus i inch for seams. Re-shape. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



109 




DIAGRAM 73. 



How to Make Peg Top Trousers Out of a Normal 

Block Pattern 

Take a normal pattern with the scat measure corresponding, aiid proceed as follows: 
After measuring and marking the proper lengths appl>' the knee measure required from 

NtoE. . , u 

Draw a line from F, through E, to get point C, or add from B to C say i mch, or as much as 
wanted, and shape from A through C and E down to F. 

THE BACKPART. 

From K to L is the same as D to E on forepart. H to J is the same as B to C on forepart. 
Shape from G through J and L down to M. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADE R 




DIAGRAM 74. 



How to Make Trousers for a Bow Legged Person 

Ascertain the amount the legs are bowed by having the person stand with his feet close 
together. Measure as nearly as you can what space is between the knees and alter your pat- 
tern as follows : 

Split the pattern as from A to B and open (see diagram B) from C to D J4 inch for 
every inch space between the knees, straighten the inseam by filling it in slightly from E to F. 

Open the backpart from G to H the same as the frontpart is opened from C to D. 



A M E R 1 C A N F A TT ER N G R A DER 




DIAGRAM 75. 



TOE IN. 



For a man whose toes point inward the crease of the trousers turns outward. 
The alteration on the block pattern should be made as follows : 

Add from 4 to 5 on the forepart say H inch more or less as may be necessary, and reduce 
the same amount on the outside seam from 2 to 3. Re-shape as from A to 3 and P. to 5. 

broken lines. 

THE BACKPART. 

Add to the outside seam from 7 to 6 the same amount as the forepart has been re.luced from 
2 to 3. Reduce the same amount from 9 to 8 and re-shape as per broken lines. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM 76. 



TOE OUT. 

I"r)r the man whose toes ixiint outward the crease of the trousers falls to the inscam. 
The alteration on the block pattern shoulfi be made as follows: 

Add to the outside seam of forepart from 3 to 2, say }i inch, or as much as necessary. 
Reduce the same amount from 5 to 4 on the inscam and re-shape as per broken line. 

THE BACKPART. 



Reduce the outside seam of tiie backpart from 6 to 7, the same amount as the forepart is 
increased from 3 to 2, add the same amount from 8 to 9 on the inseani and re-shape as per 
broken lines. 



// M II U I C A N PA T T fi R N C A' .ID B R 



"3 




DIAfjRAM 78. 



The facinfj for broar] falls arc cut as follows: 

After the side pockets are marked and notclicd on the forepart, mark from C to I) i incii. 

F to II is 2>i inches, II to J is -'^ inch, F to (i is the same. Shape tin- lacing as indicated. 

The narrow falls are cnt as follows: 

Line D — F is the center of forepart., 

From D to F is the same .\ to C. 

Square back from l*". From F to !•" is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from D to ]•'.. 

D to G is 214 inches. II to K is the same. lJi;iw a line I'mm (j iliroi]j4h Is 

From K to I. is j^ hicli. II to J is the same, I (raw a line irom I to I. 

Cut in the forepart from I) to F, and fnish as represented. 



ii4 AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER 



DIAGRAM 79 

How to Make Knickerbockers from a Regular 
Trouser Pattern 

Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat measure and proceed as follows: 

THE FOREPART. 

Line C — ^J is the knee length. 

From C to D is 2j/$ inches. J to M is the same. 

D to E is 4 inches. M to O is the same. 

P is half way between E and O. 

9 is half way between B and H. 

Eh-aw a line from 9 to P. 

From P to N is 34 of the calf measure. 

P to R is the same. 

8 to L is >4 of small of knee measure, 8 to S is the same. 

Draw a line from L to N. 

From S to T is I inch. R to Q is the same. 

Draw a line from T to Q. 

H to I is ^ inch. B to F is 1% inches. 

Shape the forepart as p>er solid line. 

THE BACKPART. 

Line ii^Y is the knee length. 

From Y to 2 is 23^ inches. 2 to 7 is 4 inches. 

Draw lines across from 2 and 7. 

From Y to Z on backpart is the same as J to K on forepart. 

2 to 3 on backpart is the same as M to L on forepart. 7 to 6 on backpart is the same as 
O to N on forepart. 

Draw a line from .^ to 6. 

W to X is J<t inch. Shape the inseam as indicated. 

Apply the small of knee measure plus i mch from L to T on forepart and 3 to 4 on back- 
part. 

Apply the calf measure plus i inch from N to Q on forepart and 6 to 5 on backpart. 

From V to U is I '4 inches. Shape the backpart and finish. 



AM EPIC AN PATTERN GRADER 



"5 




DIAGRAM 79. 



A M ERI C A N PATTERN GRADER 



M 



DIAGRAM 80 

How to Make Golf Breeches Out of an Ordinary 
Block Pattern 

Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat measure and proceed as follows : 

Line C — F is the knee line. 

From C to D is 5 inches. F to E is the same. Draw a line from D to E. Point H is half 
way between D and E. Square up from H to locate J. 

From J to M is J4 of knee measure. J to X is the same. 

From B to O is i^ inches. G to P is ^ inch. 

From H to L is J/ inch. H to K is the same. 

From L to I is 34 bottom plus ^4 inch. K to lo is the same. Cut out a V between L and 
K and shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART. 

From R to W is 5 inches. S to X is the same. 

Draw a line from X to W. Point T is half way between X and \V. Square up from T to 
get Q. From Q to 3 is ;4 of knee plus >< inch. 
Q to 2 is the same. 

From 4 to 5 is ij4 inches. 8 to 9 is 3^ inch and 6 to 7 is the same. 
From T to U is 34 inch. T to V is the same. 
Cut out a V between U and V as indicated. 
From U to Z is J4 bottom plus % inch. 
V to Y is the same. Shape the backpart and finish. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



117 




DIAGRAM 80. 



ii8 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE A. 



The Low Shoulder 



Figure A shows a fault which is caused by one shoulder being lower than the other, as seen 
on illustration. 

The coat on the low side is tight over ^he hip, and the fulness therefrom is carried over to 
the high shoulder side. This not alone causes the low side to wrinkle under the arm, but also to 
make the coat hang to one side. 

How to alter this defect, see Diagram A. 

Ascertain the difference in the shoulder heights and proceed as follows: 

Let us say the difference between the high and the low shoulder is 3/^ inch. 

Split the backpart as from A to D, overlap as from D to E, ^ inch and re-shape. 

THE FOREPART. 



Split the forepart as from B to G and overlap from G to F, ^ inch, which is the difference 
between the high and the low shoulder. 

The alteration in the frock coat (Diagram Ai) is made in the same way. Place the side- 
body alongside of the backpart in the same position in which they were cut, and split and overlap 
the same way as the sack coat. 



A M ERl C A N 




AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



If tlie difference between the low and the high shoulder is not so great, alter as follows 
(Diagram A2) : 

Move the hackpart down as from i to 2, ^ or '/< inch, reduce the back shoulder from 
,^ to 4 the same amount. Alake the distance from 4 to 6 the same as from 3 to 5, leaving the 
front shoulder as it is. 

Should this alteration be required when the coat is finished, or should the goods be of a 
stri])ed material, make the alteration as follows ( Diagram A3 ) : 

Lower the backpart as from i to 2 (as previously explained) the difference between the 
high and low shoulder, reduce the shoulder from 6 to 5 the same amount, make the backpart 
from 5 to 7 the same length as the original backpart is from 6 to 8. 

THE FOREPART. 

Reduce the side of forepart from 3 to 4 the same amount as the backpart was reduced 
from I to 2. From 9 to .V is the same as from 3 to 4. I'lace the forepart pattern at points 
4 — A and re-shape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 





AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE B. 



FIGURE Bi. 



Figures B and B i show the front and back o f the same coat. 

At the back the coat catches, and is too tight at the hip, wrinkles at the upper part of the 
side seams, and shows a wrinkle under the collar. 

At the front the coat looks as if it were made for a fat man; it is all too large at the lower 
button, and sticks out below the waist. 

The cause of these defects is the back is too long for the foreparts. 

How to alter, see Diagram B. 

We will now show how to make these alterations in detail. 

As the back shows a slight wrinkle under the collar, there must be too much shoulder 
slope, or a tightness over the shoulder pitch. We will therefore reduce the backpart from i to 2 
and 3 to 4 about ^ inch and leave point S as it is. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



123 




m 



We will now considei; the forepart. 

As the coat is too large in front below the waist, it shows that the tightness at the hip is 
only caused by a poor balance, i. e., if the fulness of the front edge were transferred to the side, 
there would be no tightness at the hip; therefore, the proper alteration is to swing the forepart 
so as to bring the front fulness to the side. 

To do this, proceed as follows: 

Should there be any tightness at the first button, all that is necessary is to crook and raise 
the shoulder (see Diagram B — i, broken line) about J^ inch. But if the first button is right, 
then make the alteration as shown on Diagram B. 

Raise the shoulder from 9 to 8 and 7 to 6 about 34 inch, and drop the backpart from 14 
to 15 the same amount; lengthen the forepart from 13 to 12 the same as the back is lowered 
from 14 to 15, which is "4 inch. 



124 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE C. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



125 




DIAGRAM C. 



Figure C shows the back of a sack, coat, with what is called the '"horse shoe" wrinkles. 
This defect is caused by the backpart being too short for the forepart. 

^rrc^'r ::dSM:;s^een. to be all ri^U there is nothing to be done except to 

'-^ t ':^. ^o^: ^r: tt ^7^x3.0. poi. 3 .p . poi. . Aft. t. 

backus nled up the shoulder will becon^e a little too loose, so reduce the shoulder fron. i to 
3 about 14 inch. Lengthen the back from 6 to 7. 3^ '"ch. 



126 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE D. 



FIGURE Di. 



FIGURES D and DI 



Defect — ^The wrinkles at the back of the neck, as illustrated by Figures D and Di arise 
from entirely different causes, as will be seen. See Figure D. 

Cause — The collar is just right for height; yet there is a surplus amount of cloth between 
the shoulder-pitch and the neck, which shows that there is too much back length from the 
shoulder-pitch up; and yet, if the back scye were too deep, the backpart would drop and show 
a wTinkle at the back of the armscye; but as such is not so in this case, then the coat is too tight 
at the shoulder-pitch and must be altered as follows. (See Diagram D.) 

To alter— Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, say, '/z inch, re-shape as p>er 
broken line to E, make the back slightly wider at F, so as to retain the shoulder width, and 
let out the front shoulder as from H to G, say % inch. 

Fig. Di — In this case the wrinkle is different from the preceding, and shows that it is 
caused by the stretching of the collar stand from the fact that the collar lacks in height the 
same amount tliat the wrinkle takes up. 

The collar stand, as cut and after the seam is sewed up, will fit to the back as on Figure 
Diagram D2; but when the stand is stretched, it becomes rounder than the back will allow (see 
Diagram Di), and thus forces the back away from its proper place and leaves a wrinkle under- 
peath. 

To alter — So, in order to fix this wrinkle, put in a new collar a>td don't stretch the stand. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



127 




DIAGRAM Di. 



DIAGRAM D2. 



128 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE E. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



129 




DIAGRAM E. 



Figure E shows a coat that flares out at the lapel. The cause of this defect is that the 
shoulder is too crooked. How to alter, see Diagram E. 

Sweep from B to C pivoting at A; make the distance from B to C K' inch, or as much as 
is necessary. Lower the gorge from F to G the same amount as from B to C. From C to D is 
the same length as from B to E. Re-shape as per broken line. 



I30 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE F. 



F"igure F shows a coat that has too much overlap at the front. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



131 




diagra:\i f. 



How to alter, see Diagram F. 

Should the coat have one inch too much overlap, straijjhten the shoulder jS inch, as frooi 
A to B, which is half of the excess overlap. Reduce from E to F, C to D, I to J and G to H the 
same amount. 



132 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE G. 



Figure ("i slunvs a fault that has been very cuiniuoii lately, and for the want of a better name, 
some cutters call it "carbuncles." 

These wrinkles are caused by the stretching of the front shoukler without adding extra 
height to the shoulder pitch. 

The stretching of the front .shoulder is not good at any time and is positively bad on striped 
materials, for no matter how careful you are, you cannot keep the stripe straight ; but if the 
gorge is stretched and the shoulder pitch made higher, these wrinkles would disappear. But in 
order to stretch the gorge, it is necessary to first advance the shoulder point, /. c. straighten 
the shoulder. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



133 




DIAGRAM G. 



This change may be made in the pattern before the coat is cut, or as an alteration after the 
garment is finished. 

To alter see Diagram G. 

Raise the shoulder pitch from 8 to 9 about }i inch ; straighten the shoulder as from 10 to 1 1 
half that amount ; make the length from 7 to 1 1 the same as from 7 to 10 and re-shape. 



134 



,■/ M ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE H. 



FIGURE Hi. 



Alterations and How to Make Them 



Fault: Coat wrinkles across the back under the collar and at the front shoulders. This 
fault is more common in the summer time, as at that season of the year most people wear 
turn-down collars and no waistcoats. 

On the turn-down collar, the outer leaf invariably sticks away from the collar band, and 
leaves a vacuum between the shirt and the outer edge of the collar. 

Therefore, when a coat is put on over a collar of that kind, especially when no waistcoat is 
worn, the coat collar cannot come close to the neck, because the shirt collar keeps it away and 
causes the wrinkle. 

Naturally, if a waistcoat was worn the wrinkle might still be there, but the back and shoul- 
ders of the waistcoat would act as a pad (so to speak) filling the vacuum, and minimizing the 
wrinkle. 

But the actual cause of the trouble is that the backscye is too deep, and in measuring for a 
summer coat, the scye depth should begin just where the collar edge ends. 

If an alteration is to be made on a garment of that kind it should be made as follows: 

Shorten the scye depth as from i to 2 and 3 to 4 (Diagram II) say half an inch, more or 
less, according to the size of the wrinkle. 

A tight shoulder will often make a wrinkle across the back, in which case leave out the front 
shoulder, as from 5 to 6, and re-shape as per broken lines. 

In case there is no outlet on the shoulder, make your alteration as in Diagram Hi. Shorten 
the scve depth from i to 2 and 3 to 4, half an inch, shorten the front shoulder from 6 to 7 the 
same, and re-shape as per solid lines. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



135 





136 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE I. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



137 




DIAGRAM I. 



Figure I shows a coat with what some tailors consider too much fold over the breast. 

While we do not consider this a fault, yet we have so many inquiries as to how to reduce 
this fold, that we herewith show how to make the alteration. 

Diagram I shows how the alteration is to be made. 

Pare out the armscye from B to A, say 'A inch ; reduce the side seam C to D the same and 
re-shape as per broken line. 



1.^8 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 





FIGURE J. 



FIGURE J I. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



139 




DIAGRAM J I. 



DIAGRAM J. 



FIGURE Jl 

Fault— This sleeve wrinkles from the top of the undersleeve upwards. 

Cause— It has too much sleeve head. ,. . . a 

How to alter-(See Diagram Ji)-Reduce the sleeve head from i to 2, say /^ inch, and 

re-shape as per broken line. Reduce the undersleeve from 3 to 4 the same amount as the 

upper sleeve and re-shape. 

Fault-The sleeve draws in long folds from the sleeve head down, both front and back. 
Cause— The sleeve head is too short. 

DIAGRAM J 

How to alter-Reduce the sleeve from A to B and C to D, say /a inch, and re-shape as per 
broken hue Reduce the under sleeve from G to H and E to F the same amcmt and re-shape. 
Lengthen the sleeve from K to L and I to J the same, /^ mch. 



I40 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE K. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



141 




DIAGRAM K. 



Figure K shows two defects. 

Pirst — The coat shows a wrinkle under the collar. 

Second— It shows a slight wrinkle on the side seam and does not drape well at the bottom. 

The cause of this defect is the back is too long. 

How to alter, see Diagram K. 

Shorten the back from A to B and C to D >^ inch more or less as may be necessary. 

From B to D is the same as A to C. 

From E to F is J4 the distance of A to B. 

Re-shape the back as per broken line. ^, . , , ^ , u . t 

The shoulder from G to H is H inch less than D to F. Shrmk the backpart between J 

and K as indicated. 



142 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




I'fGL-RE L. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



143 




DIAGRAM L. 



FIGURE L 



Fault — The backpart wrinkles at the sides. 

Cause — The backpart is too short for the forepart. 

DIAGKAM L 

How to alter— Cut ■ the backpart down from A to B, say yi inch, and move point B of 
backpart up to point A of forepart, reduce forepart from C to D as much as necessary. 



144 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE M. 



A M n R I C A N PATTERN GRADER 



145 




DIAGRAM M. 



FIGURE M 



Fault — -Too imicli lap at the breast and not cn(Pii,i,'li at the bottom. 
Cause — A crooked shoulder. 

DIAGRAM M 



Mow to alter — Sweei) from .\ to 1!. pivoting at (1 
.Vdvance from A to R, say ^ inch. 
Drop, the gorge from C to D -J^ inch. 
From B to E is the same as A to F, 
Re-shape as per broken line, 



•46 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE N. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



147 




DIAGRAM N. 



The fault shown on Figure N is one that is frequently seen on overcoats, and many other- 
wise faultless garments have this defect. When the garment is first put on and the undercoat 
pulled down, the collar sets up well and close to the neck, but after a little while it seems to 
gradually slide down and show the collar of the undercoat. The cause of this defect is that the 
backpart is too short. 

How to alter (see Diagram N). 

Lengthen the back from A to B and C to D say /. inch, more or less as may be necessary. 
From G to F on forepart is /. inch less than D to H on backpart. Re-shape as per broken line. 



14S 



.■AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE O 



Fault— The coat wrinkles at the sides and hangs away from the waist. 
Cause — The backpart is too short for the forepart. 
How to alter (see Diaeram O) 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



140 




DIAGRAM Oi. 



If there is sufficient outlet on the top of back, leave out from A to B and C to D, say, }i 
inch. The distance from B to D ought to be the same as from A to C, which would bring it 
to E, but as there never is any outlet on the back shoulder, make the width from B to D as 
wide as you can. If the backpart is much too short, the front shoulder ought to be somewhat 
shortened, but as in this case the backpart from B to D is somewhat too narrow, leave the front 
shoulder as it is, and the result will be the same as if the front shoulder were shortened. 

Another way to make this alteration is as follows (see Diagram Oi) : Lengthen the back 
waist from A to B, say, J4 inch; bring point B to F; baste up the side seam and leave out the 
sidebodv from C to D as much as necessary. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE F. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



>5' 




DIAGRAM P. 



FIGURE P 



Fault— The coat wrinkles under the collar and down the sides. The center vent opens. 
Cause — The backpart is too long for the forepart. 

How to alter (see Diagram P)— Shorten the back from A to E and C to D, say '/2 inch. 
Lengthen the front shoulder from F to G and H to J, say 5^ inch, or as much as necessary-. 



152 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE Q. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



153 




DIAGRAM Q. 



Fat Man's Double-Breasted Frock 



Fault — The skirt hangs close to the sides and flares at the front. 

Cause — The skirt is too short at the front. 

How to alter — See Diagram Q. 

Shorten the skirt from solid line B to broken line C, say '/i inch or J^ inch and re-shape 
to point A. Lengthen the skirt from E to F, the same amount as it has been shortened from 
B to C. 



1 54 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE R. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



155 




DIAGRAM R. 



Figure R shows the back skirts over-lapping ; in which case alter, as on Diagram R. 
From 2 to 3 is >< the distance the skirts overlap, say }i inch if the overlap is i^ inches. 
Reduce the skirts, beginning- with nothing at the point of sidebody, and shape gradually as 
I>er broken line 3. 



k6 



AM ERICA \ PATTERN GRADER 




Figwres S and Si are the back and front view of the same coat. 

The fault is — Wrinkles on the forepart from the ^ides slanting upwards, and on the back 
slanting downwards, and the skirts open at the back. 

The cause is — The fronts are too short for the backpart, or the backpart is too long for the 
fronts, which is one and the same fault. 

How to alter — Let me be plainly understood when I say the fronts are too short for the 
back. I do not mean to say they are too short in the length, on the contrary, they may be full 
k^ng. and yet too short to balance with the back 

.\s there are se\-eral ways to alter this fault I «-ill here give three diagrams showing three 
different ways to alter it 

If the fronts are long enough for proper length, alter as follows: 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



»57 




DIAGR.A.M S. 




DIAGILAM S2. 
DIAGRAM S 

Reduce the back from A to B and C to D, say ^ inch or J4 inch. 

From E to F reduce 1/2 the amount, widen the back slightly at F, and re-shape as per 
broken line. 

DIAGPvAM SI 

If the fronts are too short for proper length alter as on Diagram Si. 
Reduce the back from 2 to 3 and 4 to 5, say J4 Jnch, 

Let out the outlet from 8 to 7, and 10 to 9, say 54 inch, and re-sh^)e as per broken iine. 
This alteration will require a new collar. 

It sometimes happens that there is no more goods for a new collar, or that there is no 
outlet on the shoulder, in which case alter as on Diagram S2. 

DIAGKAM S2 

Cut down the armscye from F to G, say >4 or ^ inch. Lei^hen the fronts from H to J 
and K to L, M to X, and O to P, the same amount and re-sh^)e as per broken line. 



158 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE T. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



159 




DIAGRAM T. 



DIAGKAM T 



Fault — The skirts flare at the front edge. 

How to alter— If the pleats are right, and do not overlap, alter as on Diagram T. 
Reduce the skirt at the waist seam as from 2 to 3, Vs or /^ inch, and re-shape as per 
broken line. 



i6o 



AMERICAN PATTER A' GRADER 





FIGURE Ui. 



FIGURE U. 



Fault — The collar is too loose does not come close to the shirt collar. 

Cause — The shoulder is too tight at the pitch. 

How to alter — There are two ways to make this alteration. 

If the looseness is slight, and the armscye a little close make the alteration as on Diagram U. 
Just raise or loosen the shoulder as from A to B, say yi inch. This will let the coat come 
down to its proper place and leave the collar closer. If the collar is loose and the armscye is 
easy and deep enough, make your alteration as on Diagram Ui. Straighten the shoulder as from 
D to C, say J^ inch or as much as necessary. 

Make the length from G to C the same as from G to D. 

From C to E is the same as from D to F. 

Reshape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



i6i 



I 




DIAGRAM U. 



Figure U does not alone show a looseness in the collar, but also a faHing away of the collar 
from the neck, which does not alone necessitate the straightening of the shoulder as on Dia- 
gram Ui, but also the crooking of the collar See Diagram U. 

From C to E should be the full width of collar stand, which is i% inches, and should be 
made as follows : 

Draw a line from the lapel break F through E to G. 

From G to K is 134 inches. 

From E to G is the same as the top width of back; shape as per broken line. 



i. 



l62 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




DIAGRAM V. 
FIGUKE V 

Fault— The vest is too tight across the front of breast. It may be large enough or 
even too large at the sides. A vest of this kind is also apt to be too loose or to stick away from 
the body at the bottom button. 

How to alter — See Diagram V. 

One alteration will remedy both defects: 

Unbutton the vest all but the bottom button and see what the distance is between the 
upper button and buttonhole. Say the distance is i inch, now crook the shoulder as from A to 
B half of that amount, t. e., yi inch, and reduce the backpart from C to D the same. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



163 




DIAGRAM W. 



FIGURE W 

Fault-This vest flares at the opening and is too loose at the upper buttons. 
S:^;;^^^t ':T:::^ . conar the o.^ th.^ to ^ is to stretch the ^^y. 

}i inch as may be necessary. Shorten the strap 74 ui /. 
amount as you have advanced from A to B. 



164 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE X. 




DIAGRAM X. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



i6s 




DIAGRAM Xi. 



DIAGRAM X2. 



Fault: Figure X shows a very common fault, i. e., the vest is too low at the back of the neck, 
and does not cover the collar button. 

Cause: There are several causes for such a fault: (i) The scye depth may be too short. 
(2) The strap may be too long for the scye depth. (3) It also happens sometimes that while 
the vest is not high enough at the back of neck, there is a wrinkle across the back part 2 or 3 
inches below the neck. 

How to alter : 

We will treat each cause separately. 

If the first is the reason and the vest length is just right, make the alteration as follows: 
(See Diagram X.) Raise the backpart from A to B, and C to D i inch, add the same from C 
to 2, and from E to F. Measure the distance from A to C and from B to D; the distance from 
B to D is now slightly increased, so reduce the increase from H to G on forepart., 

If the trouble arises from the second cause the same alteration will remedy the difficulty 
excepting where the vest can stand being shortened, in which case leave the backpart as it is and 
.shorten the strap. (See Diagram Xi.) 

Should the third cause be responsible for the defect, and if the backpart has a wrinkle across 
somewhere between the neck and scye depth and still is too low in the neck, proceed as on Dia- 
gram X2. Advance the shoulder point from I to I /^ or ^ inch. Reduce the same from K to 
I. as per broken line. 



i66 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE Y. 




DIAGRAM Y. 



Fault — The vest back wrinkles below the neck. 
Cause — The vest back is too long from the shoulder pitch up. 
How to alter — (See Diagram Y). 

Reduce the back from A to B and C to D, say Yz inch and re-shape as per broken line to E. 
Measure the back shoulder from C to E and from D to E and whatever difference there is, 
reduce the same amount from F to G on forepart. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



167 





FIGURE Z. 



DIAGRAM Z. 



The fault of the trousers herein shown is one frequently seen. 

When the man stands straight, the trousers hang well and fall straight with very little ful- 
ness at the crotch ; but when the knee is bent as in walking or sitting down, the forepart catches 
at the knee, drawing wrinkles from the crotch downward, at the same time causing the forepart 
to be held tight in the front at the bend of the ankle and the backpart to stick away at the heel 

The cause of this defect is: 

The backpart is cut too straight. We know that it is every cutter's desire to cut trousers 
that will have little or no surplus length at the back crotch, but there is a limit to straight trou- 
sers, especially when the goods happens to be a hard worsted or any hard woven material, 
when such a defect is more apt to occur. 

How to alter, see Diagram Z. 

Reduce the backpart from C to O, say i inch, or as much as you think necessary to relieve 
the draw ; add from A to B the same. 

Raise J^ inch at O an 1 reshape as per broken line. 



i68 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE AA. 



/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



169 




DIAGRAM AA. 



Fat Man's Trousers 

FIGURE AA 

Fault — The trousers wrinkle and seem to draw at the fly below the stomach. 

Cause — Too much waist and stomach. 

How to alter — (See Diagram AA). 

By too much waist we do not mean that the trousers are too large at the waist, but that 
in distributing the cloth the front has got too much of it. Therefore reduce the waist from 
C to D 5^ inch, reduce from E to F the same as C to D and re-shape. Add from B to A on 
backpart the same amount as the front is reduced from C to D. 



170 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURE BB. 



FIGURE BB 

Fault— The crease of the trousers turns to the inseam. 
Cause — The cause may be in cutting or in the making. 

If a fault of this kind happens often the cause is in the cutting, in which case reduce the 
backpart as from 9 to 10, ^ or ^ inch and advance the same amount from 6 to 12. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



171 




DIAGRAM BB. 

But it happens once in a while that the fault is the tailor's. For instance: 

If the forepart is stretched between 2 and 10 more thar the inseam between 3 and 8. the 

crease will fall to the inseam. Sometimes the notches do not meet, in which case the alteration 

is simple, but no matter from what cause, if you drop the notch on the backpart as from 4 to 5 

and make the forepart notch meet it, the crease will fall to the center. 

In moving the notch down reduce the backpart from 13 to 14 the same amount as the notch 

has been moved down and add the same from 12 to 7. 



172 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




FIGURES CC 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



173 




DIAGRAM CC. 



Figures C C show the front and back of the same trousers. This fault can often be seen 
on what is called a back bow. The cause of this defect is the backparts are too long and the 
front parts too short. How to alter, see Diagram C C. 



THE FOREPART. 

Reduce and raise the forepart from D to C, say >4 inch each way, and add the same 
amount from B to A. Re-shape as per broken line. 

THE BACKPART. 

Reduce the side seam of the backpart from N to M about i inch, and leave out the outlet 
on the inseam from L to K the same amount. Leave out from I to J, say yi inch, and from G 
to H the same. Reduce the same amount from E to F and re-shape as per broken line. 



174 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 




A 16 

FIGURE DD. 




DIAGRAM DD. 



Fault — The trousers wrinkle in front of crotch. 

Cause — This is sometimes caused by the forepart being stretched on the inseam. 

Some trouser makers have a habit of stretching the inseam while shrinking the backpart, 
after the seams are sewed up, which is decidedly wrong, for while the inseam of the back- 
part must be stretched between the knee and the crotch, yet it must be done before the seams 
are sewed up, so that the inseam of the forepart will not stretch. 

How to alter — To remedy this defect is easy, all that is necessary is to rip the inseam, press 
the forepart straight and sew it up again. 

Sometimes, however, this defect is caused by the inseam being too long in which case see 
Diagram DD. 

To avoid such a defect — In cutting the trousers advance the line from A to B >^ or .)4 
inch and reduce from C to D the same amount, cut the backpart accordingly, that shortens the 
inseam. If, however, the trousers are finished and from A to B cannot be advanced, there 
being no outlet on the forepart, make your alteration as follows : 

Let out the outlet on the backpart from E to F, say i inch, and take in the same amount on 
the outside seam. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



175 



Instructions for Tailoring Coats 

In order to be a successful cutter, the first thing necessary is to work in harmony with 
your tailors. It is not essential to have the best tailors, for every tailoring house can't 
have the best trade, but, no matter how good a tailor a man may be he must look to his 
cutter for instructions. It is the cutter who is held responsible by the firm for the good 
or bad garment produced, and so it naturallyfollows that his instructions must be followed. 

The indiscriminate stretching of shoulders or gorge by good coat makers has done more 
to produce bad garments than many cutters are aware of, and the drawing in and shrinking 
of armholes for chest eflFect where no provision for such work has been made has killed 
many a job. In the back shops, where many good coat makers come together and where 
work of a high-class is made, the best coat maker is looked up to for pointers as to how 
stylish garments ought to be made, and, as it is every coat maker's ambition to be consid- 
ered as good or better than the best, he will not alone follow the good man, but go him one 
better. That is, if it is good to stretch the shoulder seam a little, it is better to stretch it 
much, at the same time forgetting the old story, "That what will cure an Irishman 
may kill a Dutchman." 




The proper way to make a coat depends upon the way the coat is cut. We have now 
what is known among cutters as three kinds of shoulders, viz. ; the straight, the crooked 
and the normal shoulder, each of which requires manipulation of its own to produce the 
proper efifect. To make myself more clearly understood I must explain where the crooked 
shoulder begins and where the straight shoulder ends. To the average cutter's judgment 
a crooked shoulder is one wjiere the distance from the line in front of the armscye to the 
shoulder point is less than % of the breast measure, and a straight shoulder is one that 
measures more than % of breast. % of breast is therefore normal. That is true providing 
the breast and waist at the front edge are on a square with the breast line on the normal 
coat. (See Diagram AA.) 



176 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



However, should the distance from the same line in front of the armscye to the shoulder 
point be >4 inch less than Yt of the breast measure, and the waist at the front edge extend 
3^ inch in front of the breast line, (see Diagram BB) then the shoulder is not crooked 
but normal. 

Diagram CC is a copy of Diagram BB with an imaginary breast line squared back by 
the front edge. (See broken line.) By squaring up from the present breast line in front 
of the armscye and measuring from that line to the shoulder point the distance will be 
Yd of the breast measure and the shoulder is therefore not crooked. 




The same is true the other way; on the normal figure, where the distance from the 
line in front of the armscye to the shoulder point is Yb breast, plus i inch, and the waist 
point recedes i inch from the line squared down from the breast, Csee Diagram DD), the 
shoulder is not straight but normal. Now let us consider the shoulder from the present 
point of view. 

I will now proceed to explain how coats ought to be made up; As the greater part 
of the makings up of coats are known to every tailor, I will explain only those points which 
deal with the vital fitting points and artistic lines, /. e., the shoulders, collars, sleeves, chest 
effect and the front edges. 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 177 



The Crooked Shoulder 

The coat with the crooked shoulder must not have the chest worked in from the arm- 
scye ; the chest must be worked in from the front edge. At the armscye the canvas must be 
cut and the armscye stretched. The overshoulder must have no extra additions except for 
the seams. The high shoulder is produced by the stretching of the armscye. The upper 
sleeve may be cut J4 inch larger than the armscye because the stretching of the armscye 
requires a larger upper sleeve. The collar may be put in easy at the hollow of the gorge, 
but not too long, and must be shrunk in at the crease. This kind of a coat used to be made 
by almost every tailor some years ago, and is still made by some tailors now. 

The coat with a normal shoulder must be made up as follows: The chest is worked in 
slightly from the armscye and the rest from the front edge. The shoulder seam of the fore- 
part must not be stretched unless extra height is given to the shoulder pitch, the collar is 
put in longer than in the coat with a crookedshoulder and is also slightly shrunk in at the 
crease. The armscye must not be stretched and the sleeve, which is cut to measure, is put 
in in the usual way. 

The Coat With The Straight Shoulder 

The manipulations of this coat depends upon how straight the shoulder is cut. Let us 
assume that the shoulder point is yi of breastplus yi inch from in front of the armscye. The 
shoulder ought to be raised the same amount in height as the shoulder is straightened, in 
which case the manipulations are as follows: The front of the armscye should be drawn 
in and shrunk yi inch. The gorge may be slightly stretched, but if not stretched at all and 
the collar is put in full long it is just as good. The canvas must have a }i inch V cut out 
from in front of the armscye, and a J4 inch short V set in at the shoulder near the gorge. 
The upper sleeve may be slightly reduced in width, especially if the material is worsted, 
and may be raised ^ to ^ inch if the shoulder is narrow. The front edges must not be 
worked in much at the breast, and at the lowei part of the edge the stay tape must be put 
in short enough to prevent the edge from being stretched. The collar crease must not be 
shrunk in. Keep the crease straight. 



J78 AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 



Index 



Page 

Introduction 4 

Preface ....'... 5 

Table of Proportions for Boys and Youths 6 

Table of Proportions for Men 7 

Table of Proportions for Short Measures 8 

GRADING. 

How to Grade a Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 9 

How to Grade a Sack Coat from a Single Pattern — {continued) 12 

How to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 14 

How to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern — {continued) 16 

How to Grade a Double-Breasted Sack Coat from a Single Pattern 18 

How to Grade a Frock Coat from a Single Pattern 20 

How to Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a Single Pattern 24 

How to Grade a Double-Breasted Frock Coat from a Single Pattern 26 

How to Grade a Dress Coat from a Single Pattern 28 

How to Grade a Dress Waistcoat from a Single Pattern.... r 30 

Double Grading: Single-Breasted Sack Coat 32 

Double Grading: Single-Breasted Stout Sack Coat 34 

Double Grading: Double-Breasted Sack Coat 3f> 

How to Make a Double Grade for a Frock Coat 38 

How to Make a Double G/ade for a Stout Frock Coat 40 

How to Make a Double Grade for a Double-Breasted Frock Coat 42 

How to Make a Double Grade for a Dress Coat 44 

The Sleeve 46 

How to Grade Collars 48 

The Double Grade : How to Grade Vests from Two Patterns 50 

The Double Grade: How to Grade Stout Vests from Two Patterns 52 

The Double Grade: How to Grade a Double-Breasted Vest from Two Patterns.. 54 

How to Grade Trousers S6 

BLOCK PATTERNS AND HOW TO USE THEM. 

Block Patterns and How to Use Them 58 

Block Patterns and How to Use Them — {continued) . . 60 

How to Change a Normal Pattern from a Normal to an Erect Figure 62 

How to Change a Normal Pattern from a Normal for a Hunchback 64 

Normal Figure, Square Shoulders 64 

Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders "° 

Stooping Figure, with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal ^ 

Figure Erect, Shoulders Square i °° 

Figure Stooping, Shoulders Square 68 

Figure Normal, Shoulders Sloping 70 

Figure Erect, Shoulders Sloping ... 7" 

Figure Stooping, Shoulders Sloping 72 

How to Increase the Waist ^^ 

How to Decrease the Waist 74 



AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER 179 



IndeX^" (Continued) 



Page 

How to Exaggerate a Coat from a Block Pattern 74 

How to Make a Double-Breasted Forepart from a Single-Breasted Pattern 76 

How to Make a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary Sack Coat Pattern 76 

How to Increase the Waist Length in a Frock Coat 78 

How to Shorten the Waist Length in a Frock Coat 79 

Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal 80 

Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal 81 

Frock Coat for Hunchback 82 

Frock Coat for Over-Erect Figure, Shoulders Normal 83 

How to Make a Square-Shouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat 84 

How to Make a Round-Shouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat Pattern 86 

How to Make a Circular Cape 88 

How to Make a Shoulder Cape 9° 

How to Make a Shoulder Cape — (^contwucd) 91 

BLOCK PATTERNS FOR WAISTCOATS AND HOW TO USE THEM. 

Shoulders Normal, Figure Erect 9- 

Flat Blade, Full Breast 93 

Shoulders Square, Figure Erect 94 

Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect 95 

Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders • 9^ 

Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders ,• • 97 

Stooping Figure, Square Shoulders 98 

Large Blade, Flat Breast 99 

A Vest for a Hunchback 100 

How to Make a Clerical Waistcoat Out of an Ordinary Pattern loi 

A Clergyman's Waistcoat to Button on the Side I03 

How to Make a Double-Breasted Vest Out of a Single-Breasted Pattern 103 

How to Make a Double-Breasted Dress Waistcoat Out of a Single-Breasted Block 

Pattern '04 

How to Make a Dress Vest Out of a Reguular Pattern lOS 

BLOCK PATTERNS FOR TROUSERS AND HOW TO USE THEM. 

How to Reduce the Rise; also How to Shorten or Lengthen Trousers 106 

How to Reduce the Waist and Knee Measures io7 

How to Increase the Waist '0° 

How to Make Peg-Top Trousers Out of a Normal Block Pattern 109 

How to Make Trousers for a Bow-Legged Person no 

How to Make Trousers for a Toe-in Person 1 1 1 

How to Make Trousers for a Toe-out Person 112 

How to Make Broad Falls "3 

How to Make Narrow Falls "3 

How to Make Knickerbockers from a Regular Trousers Pattern 114 

How to Make Golf Breeches Out of an Ordinary Block Pattern 116 

Alterations and How to Make Them 1 18-174 

Instructions for Tailoring Coats '75 



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